Improve the cooling of the Acer Aspire laptop. Easy cleaning system cleaning

Laptop cooling system. frequent problems and their solutions, as well as modernization

Each computer device has components that help cool the processor, graphic part, memory drives and other components. The laptop cooling system does the same, so the quality of the system should be at the height. Cooling the system board and all other parts of the computer or laptop, we prevent the device from overheating, lowering performance and failure of some important parts of PC.

In what cases the laptop cooling system and not only will work badly? Of course, the strong heating of the case, and if you touch the components, for example, the processor, you can even burn your hand. This is unacceptable. Strong noise and brakes in the system will lead to poor consequences if you do not eliminate the problem in time. You can notice the appearance of errors in the system, blue cranes of death bsod, long opening of programs. If you have it, then first of all take care of the cooling system, and if this did not help, then the reason is in other components.

What is the cooling system of the laptop

Now we will consider the structure of the cooling system (CO). The design consists of many elements. It turns out that the failure of some of the elements means repair or replacement of the entire cooling system. So, C consists of:

• Heat pipes. having a special tube liquid help to remove heat from the processor. Are usually made of copper. The component with is very important, so it should be paid attention to it. Can pass through the processor and chip of the video card, and then to the fan blowing hot air
• Copper radiator. is a small copper plates that allocate heat. The design can be made from aluminum.
• Fan is an important component with. Helps to blow hot air through a special hole in the laptop. The speed of rotation of the cooler is determined by sensors on the processor.

Determine the temperature of the laptop

Modern laptops can determine high temperature using sensors. If the threshold is exceeded, the processor begins to work at reduced frequencies, as a result you can see the slow operation of the computer, other components can also lower performance, this is called Trottling. when the processor misses part of the clocks to protect itself and other components from thermal damage. Overcoming a critical point, the computer is immediately turned off, although such a function does not exist in all processors.

In addition, you can determine the temperature with two methods: they will touch the laptop panel, if it is strongly heated, then it is necessary to take measures. The second method is to use special utilities for temperature monitoring. For example, AIDA64, Hwmonitor and many others.

It is worth noting that the temperature of the processor should not rise over 70 degrees, and the mark of 85 and above is a critical. Modern processors can withstand a temperature of 100 degrees and above, but then the computer will most likely turn off.

The temperature of the video card is about the same level as the processor.

Chipset temperature. maximum 90 degrees. We look at the characteristics of our chipset on the Internet.

Memory drives should not be heated above 50 or 60 degrees. The optimal temperature for them is 30-35 degrees.

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That’s what is better already.

Now I cut the radiator in size, I make installation points. The laptop in completely passive mode does not heat up above 65 degrees, but this is with an open lid and the height of the ribs of 6 mm. In order to close the lid, you need to cut 4mm, then you will need to blow.

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Viewing YouTube videos, 480r. Modern compression algorithms non.huts so load the percentage. While playing in the Second World War, Winrar testing, the temperatures were slightly higher, but I did not fix them 🙁

NFS Porsche game. The fan does not even start.

PS

Thermal greed was changed immediately as it was overheating for the first time, the Arctic Cooling MX2 did not help. From the nuances. The hub stands below the mind (under the same radiator), put it on a fresh thermal laying.

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Liquid cooling of the laptop ⁠ ⁠

We have Acer Aspire V3-772G Intel (Core i7 (8 nuclei 2 cores.20GHZ)/ 4095 MB NVIDIA GeForce GT 750M, everything else is not important), it is necessary to cool.

3 schemes of cooling were considered (some schemes):

1) as in the post http: // pikabu.ru/story/okhlazhdenie_noutbuka_3280701 mount the liquid cooling tubes inside the housing

2) supply chilled air to the standard cooling system

3) use a water block to cool the heat pipes of the standard air cooling system

The first method, an attempt to repeat. It was decided only because the cooling system is located very well, without any bends and a ventilation grill passes over the heat tubes. But it turned out that without serious damage to the liquid cooling body, this is the way I can’t achieve, and the laptop is a pity. And in mobility he will lose.

The second method. The idea is: since the laptop is on the stand, why not put the radiator with coolers under the stand, and pass cold water through the radiator.

I didn’t take pictures. The mobility and integrity of the case is not violated, which is plus, but the characteristics even with ice water are not impressive (I threw large pieces of ice into the water). Without load, the temperature dropped by 10 degrees, and under load, apparently due to the low heat capacity of the air only by 5-7 degrees, in comparison with the standard cooling.

The third way is to use a water block to cool heat tubes.

At first, as a standard cooling system is located (there was no picture of the fee, I took it from the analysis forum):

Closer to the RAM. this is percent, closer to the cooler. the video card chip.

The essence is this: set the water block over the processor

Since ventilation is conveniently located in this place and the removal of the grilles will not affect the ribs of the stiffness of the case. Two nuts are glued in the photo to the case, why. I will explain at the end.

We are purchased only by the necessary and sufficient: a water pump for the aquarium, the hose d = 10 mm (to someone), water block, two pairs of fittings 2 corners and 2 pairs of straight lines, 10 mm pipes, a children’s metal designer (very convenient thing).

We make a hole in the stand, we collect everything. Pay attention, if someone wants to repeat, the holder of the hoses and the pressing strips of the water block are required must, they reliably press the water block to the heat pipes for better heat transfer, prevent its displacement.

A large patch in the stand, these are traces of experience from the radiator, do not pay attention.

Without load, only the standard cooling system works

Work under load (Battlefield3. medium settings). The standard cooling system

Now it’s time to pour into the liquid cooling system of the coldest living key water from under the crane.

Her without load (only turned on, the cold went):

Let’s play at the same settings for about 20 minutes (when measured, the game still goes):

After the game, the water is already a bit heated, see what temperature shows 5 minutes after the end of the game (we will focus on it when summing up the results):

The laptop suffered minimal losses in its appearance, mobility, I think, is not violated.

Two nuts, serve to fix the laptop body relative to the stand, is needed for the same purposes as the clamping strips. Prevent the displacement of the water block for better heat transfer.

P.S. Do not kick much, the first time I did something for Pikabu

Thermal paste like a boot. Here the thermoresinka would ideally fit instead of these snot.

The laptop is primarily portable. And with such “devices” you can have a full-fledged computer, anyway, it will not go beyond the table.

Great! To the author respect! I have the same laptop and the same stand) I will have to try!

First, 8 nuclei, then read through lines, 4 nuclei, 8 flows. Hypertraining is called

What year the laptop works on i7, and I don’t understand, this is why it is necessary? The main thing is to regularly clean and remove the felt boots from the radiator.

But you can boil an accurate table, and dropsy is not needed)

Good implementation, I don’t understand why everyone is so hollowing in the eyes and kukarchy on the account of mobility, as I understand it, the laptop can always be removed from the stand and take it away, and use only the standard CO, well, and also thank you for mentioning me) very nice.

Almost 2 years have passed since the writing of this post. Why did I just find it now?! I have just such a laptop and I so steamed with how to cool it. This is brilliant! @filgood where you used to be with your post.

Cleaning and setting

If your “iron horse” has not previously overheated with similar actions, but “here it suddenly began”, then one of the most likely causes is a cluster of dust. But just do not try, please remove it with a vacuum cleaner. These actions can lead to more serious breakdowns. Clean the ventilation holes with a soft brush, and the keyboard with a special napkin. With strong pollution, it is better to take the laptop to the service center, since for cleaning it must be disassembled thoroughly. There are a bunch of bolts, all of them are of different lengths, twist and return to place in a strict sequence. Therefore, I recommend entrusting this business to an experienced master.

The second most common reason is the failure of the system cooling policy provided for in Windows 10 and earlier versions of the OS. Do the following:

• By means of a runner, move to the “processor power management” item, open its contents by pressing a plus.
• Click on a plusik next to the “Cooling Policy” point and make sure that the “active” parameter is set, and not “passive”.

After the indicated actions, your fan should earn as it should. If this does not happen, then see the following points of this instruction.

Friends, suppose you do not have dust, and cooling in the system is actively, but the car continues to overheat. So, the speed of rotation of the cooler at 50%set by the default manufacturers is not enough. You need to increase it on your own. The first method is suitable for confident users who understand what BIOS is:

• Go into mode by pressing Del, F8 or F12 during boot. Which button must be clicked depends on the model of the motherboard. If your car is activated on the fast starting, then you first turn it off in the power supply settings.
• Further, you have two options. independently set the fan power (set as a percentage) or enable the intellectual mode in which the system itself will regulate its operation. Pay attention to the parameter CPU Q-FAN CONTROL. It is he who triggers the “intellectual”. Disabled value is turned off, and Enabled is turned on.

By the way, the type of BIOS may vary slightly, do not be afraid. In the photo below you will see that the functionality remains unchanged.

• Fan Speed ​​is responsible for the fan speed.
• Temperature sets the temperature value of the processor that the cooler should support.
• Q-Fan Control activates the intellectual mode, and its FAN PROFILE settings sets the intensity of cooling. Three options are possible: Silent. energy savings and noiselessness are paramount; Standard is just the very middle ground installed by manufacturers; Performance and Turbo. will disperse the fan to the maximum, which you should choose.

After all it remains to leave the BIOS while maintaining the changes made. To do this, return to the main screen and select the Save Exit Setup option and answer in the affirmative of the system request (Y and Enter).

It is worth noting that on some laptops, such as “DNS”, manufacturers deprived us of the opportunity in the BIOS to independently increase the speed of the cooler. In this case, you only have to clean the laptop from dust and try one of the software described below.

Software

Those who do not want to go into the basic input and output system, but believe that its “asus”, “aser”, “Lenovo” or any other laptop overheat, special programs will help increase the speed of the fan, such as Speedfan, Lenovo Energy Management Easy Settings and Notebook Fancontrol. Let’s talk about them in more detail.

Speedfan

One of the most common programs with which users can monitor the temperature of the main laptop nodes and forcibly turn on the fan to the maximum is Speedfan. Among the advantages of the program I note its free, simplicity in circulation, the presence of the Russian language and relative versatility. Speedfan is suitable for most laptopes of famous brands. Dell, Acer, Samsung, HP, Lenovo and others. So what needs to be done:

• Install the utility by launching the installer with two clicks and following its instructions.
• Launch Speedfan. He will immediately diagnose your device and display data on the temperature of its nodes.
• Go to the section indicators where you can not only see the current temperature of components, but also set the necessary speed of rotation of the cooler. It is measured as a percentage.
• By pressing the configuration button, you can go to the settings of the desired and critical temperature. The first is the one that the cooling system will try to support, and the second is the one in which the system will begin to sound the alarm and warn about overheating.

Personal cooler

Some manufacturers develop similar programs for their laptops, for example:

• Lenovo Energy Management will come to the rescue to users Lenovo.
• Samsung users. Easy Settings.
• Acer will cool Acfancontrol.
• AMD overdrive is provided for AMD processors.
• For Intel. Riva Tunes.
• MSI will cool MSI AFTERBurner.

Friends, another program that I want to especially note is Notebook Fancontrol, developed by HP laptops manufacturers, but equally well functioning on most modern machines. It is also clear and free, which is also important. The main settings of the Notebook Fancontrol program are somewhat different from the control in Speedfan:

• After implementing the analysis program, you will see the processor temperature at the moment.
• The window contains three modes: Disabled-the functionality is disconnected, the Read-onlim-only for reading and Enabled-manual setting. The inclusion of the last mode will allow the movement of the runner to adjust the speed of rotation of the cooler. The line under the runner shows the real speed obtained.

Friends, today I made an Accent on laptops with the Windows operating system. Cooling control in the Linux system is even easier by the Fancontrol service, but only initially you need to correctly configure it. Who will be interested in this topic, contact, write detailed instructions. For today, I hope I was useful to you. Goodbye.

Acceleration of cooler through BIOS

It is possible to improve the power of the cooling system in this way if the motherboard on your portable computer is equipped with the function of monitoring the cooling system. Cooling system controls using special drivers. You can raise the fan power through BIOS as follows:

• Enter BIOS. To do this, it is necessary to press the DEL key on the keyboard when the operating system is loaded. But the BIOS transition key can also be F12 or F9. Which key is the entrance to BIOS depends on the company that produces a motherboard.
• Next, open the Power section and go to the Hardware Monitor item.
• Now change the parameters of the cooling system or select the intellectual mode of operation.
• Save the parameters and leave the BIOS.

Hardware Monitor subsection in different versions of BIOS can have a different appearance. But you can easily make the necessary settings if you know what and where to look:

• in the line CPU min.FAN Speed ​​(or CPU FAN CONTROL) You indicate at what speed the cooler will rotate;
• At the CPU Q-Fan Control point (select Enable) You will launch the intellectual operation of the cooling system;
• In the CPU FAN PROFILE line, you can choose how intellectual work will be held: Silent Coler will function silently; Standard Fan functions only half of its power; Turbo or Performance the cooler accelerates to the maximum;
• In the line CPU Temperature, you indicate the temperature of the processor. And the process of cooling will go to these indicators.

Coiler acceleration utilities in a laptop

For those who do not like the BIOS environment, a special software has been developed, with which you can disperse the fan on a laptop.

The most effective for such purposes are: Speedfan; AMD Overdrive; Riva Tunes.

Application of the Speedfan utility

This program has an understandable and simple integration. To disperse it with the help of it, you need to:

• Install it. She is downloaded for free on the Internet. The installation file has approximately 2.8 MB. Therefore, the Internet is suitable for downloading at low speed
• Change the language of the application to Russian. To do this, in the Configure section, go on the Options tab and select the desired language. Then press OK.
• In the section “Indicators” indicate the desired speed of rotation. Fixing how much percent of its capabilities it will function. There are also data on the temperature of the processor, motherboard and built.in drive.
• The “Configuration” section in the “Temperature” tab indicates the temperature of the processor, motherboard and hard disk. The system will adhere to these parameters.

Increasing the fan speed using AMD Overdrive and Riva Tunes

The AMD Overdrive utility increases the capacity of the fan installed on laptops with the AMD processor. To improve the work of the cooler using this application, you need:

• Install the program on a portable computer.
• Run the program. And go to the FAN CONTROL section.
• Find the Performance Control tab.
• Increase the speed of the cooler using sliders that regulate its strength.
• Now save all changes. To do this, in the Preferences section, find the Setting item. In this paragraph, put a box opposite the line “Use my last settings”. Now, after turning on the laptop, the fan will work with a new power.

If the Intel processor is built into your portable computer, then you need to install the Riva Tunes program, which was developed by Intel. This utility sets up in the same way as the previous. Therefore, there is no need to re.describe them.

Accelerating the rotation of the laptop fan is very simple. If you follow the above instructions, you will easily and quickly do it. However, it must be borne in mind that the laptop begins to work more loudly if you increase the fan capacities in it. Therefore, listening to music or watch movies on a portable computer, which is very noisy not very comfortable and pleasant. And not everyone will like to work for a device that makes noise. Loud sound can distract and interfere with concentration. The laptop also begins to consume more electricity, with the increase in the cooler power in it. If the device is connected to the network, then there will be no problems in its work. But if the laptop is disconnected from the network and works for batteries, then it will be much faster to sit down. Also, its life will be much less.

Modernization of cooling at the laptop ⁠ ⁠

Great laptop for its price. But, with the proper load, it is possible to split the processor and video chip up to 80-85 ℃. It seems, not such a critical temperature for iron, and even in a laptop. But the salt is that the case is made and a whole piece of aluminum, and, accordingly, also heats up quite hard. The following are the methods to which I used to cool the fucking laptop as much as possible.

Manual control of the laptop fan is very strange. By default, the speed is intensified not so much from the increase in temperature as from the load on the processor. Therefore, a way was found to make the revolutions directly depend on the temperature. Notebook FAN CONTROL. Small program for manual settings of the laptop fan speed. You can use existing configures, or find on the Internet. For my laptop, I did not find a config suitable for me, so I wrote myself.

The cooling standing for a long time thought about the stand, since there are a lot of protrusions on the Internet on this subject. Someone says that it does not help, or it will remove a maximum of 2-3 ℃, someone that the result is simply phenomenal. As a result, he still took a chance and took DeepCool N9EX with two fans in the center.

Cooling system, I decided to wrap up a little over the cooling system in general. Cleaned, replaced the thermal grease with NOCTUA NT-H1, thermal laying on the built-in processor video chip on Arctic Thermal Pad. And two modernizations: the first was that there are two places covered with a small likeness of the radiator on the board. Okhurantly glancing that under them, I saw that thermal laying was hiding there, so I decided not to open further. But where all the heat dissipates? That’s right, inside the case. Therefore, two additional thermal layers on the back cover of the laptop (not occupied by plastic) were adapted to remove heat from the radiator to it.

And two more thermal layers on the lid, but this time, draining the heat from the copper tube on the blow.

As a result, part of the heat from the copper tube is blown up by the native cooling system, the other part is diverted to the back cover of the laptop, where it is already blown by a stand (the stand is made in the form of ribs, so the heat from the lid does not return to the laptop, but goes through the ribs). Also, thermal laying on the copper tube does not contribute to such a strong heating of the zone in the keyboard area.

After all the manipulations, temperatures above 65 ℃ was not observed.

Dismantling and modification of cooling Acer Aspire One A531

Your attention is offered an article and a mini-vorklog, which describes the assembly/disassembly and modification of the cooling system of non-card Acer Aspire One A531H, aka ZG8. For those who want to repeat something similar: you spend all modifications at your own peril and risk, the author is not responsible for damage to your netbook and other troubles. And yes, there is no writer of me, so please do not kick for mistakes/strange style of writing. Intro, so I will start with the reason for such a brutal modification. She is obvious: he is warming, not very but still warming up. And since I am a lover to cool and d, d, do my hands just combed. The device was purchased in mid-June 2009, a few days later I dismantled it and replaced thermal laying of strange sticky material.

Your attention is offered an article and a mini-vorklog, which describes the assembly/disassembly and modification of the cooling system of non-card Acer Aspire One A531H, aka ZG8.

For those who want to repeat something similar: you spend all modifications at your own peril and risk, the author is not responsible for damage to your netbook and other troubles. And yes, there is no writer of me, so please do not kick for mistakes/strange style of writing.

Intro, so I will start with the reason for such a brutal modification. She is obvious: he is warming, not very but still warming up. And since I am a lover to cool and d, d, do my hands just combed.

The device was purchased in mid-June 2009, a few days later I dismantled it and replaced thermal laying of strange sticky material with aluminum. After a couple of weeks, I cut out an air intake hole under the cooler. In this state, a netbook still worked. I thought the plan of action sitting on a couple, after a couple I ran to the radio market behind the materials for fashion. So, I needed:

Components and materials 1. Two radiators for cooling transistors/other components of the TO220 case (I bought them, the rest was at home); 2. M2 screws with a secret head and nuts for them; 3. M3 screws with a secret head; four. Thermal paste; four. Material for the manufacture of an air duct (for example, plexiglass or thick leaf plastic).

Tools 1. Screwdrivers: cross and slotted; 2. Dremel or something similar; 3. Drill and various drills; four. Soldering iron and flattened nail (for cutting plastic); 5. Files/sandpaper and t.D. for processing parts.

Dismantling/assembly of netbooks in the beech are used screws 2x sizes: M2L5 and M2L3 (long and short), do not forget from where the screw is where (although most are signed there). Also, 3 screws M2L5 have a different color and an enlarged hat.

I will describe in words, since I did not take pictures of the process: 01. We open the compartment with the Wi-Fi module, unscrew it and take it out, let it just hang on the wires (you can remove it by disconnecting the connectors); 02. We unscrew the four M2L3 screws near the front edge of the case and three screws 5mm from behind under the hinges; 03. Open the beech, carefully pull out the keyboard (3 movable latches at the top, 2 monolithic on the sides), turn off the keyboard trail; 04. Disconnect 2 small loops (see connector map); 05. We unscrew all the screws under the keyboard near which M2L is written; 06. We unscrew the two M2L3 screws from the rear end of the loops, remove two small plastics that cover the loops; 07. Starting from the rear end (where VGA and LAN connectors) we pull black sidewalls; 08. Remove the upper half of the case; 09. Turn off the slide of the speakers; ten. Turn off the train leading to the board with LEDs and buttons (where to turn on Wi-Fi); eleven. Turn off the loop of the Bluetooth module; 12. Unscrew 3 screws M2L3 near the front edge of the mat. fees; 13. Unscrew the screws that fasten the basket with a hard drive; fourteen. Disconnect the display/webcam and holding the display, unscrew the remaining screws of the fixing loops; fifteen. Remove the display and raising the mat. We display the Wi-Fi module or its wires; 16. We pull out the hard drive, pulling the transparent tongue (next to the Bluetooth module); 17. We pull out the mat. fee.

This is all, the assembly in the reverse order. This manual for disassembly/assembly does not apply for accuracy.to. He wrote from memory.

CO modification for starters I broke off from rib radiators, which should hold the transistor in the center and hid the remnants with an emery stone:

(click on the picture to increase) Radiators (original and without ribs)

After that, you need to try on radiators in place, outline and drill holes in the plate. I also held the bolts and made a recess under the hat in the plate:

Now the most interesting thing, since the radiator has decently grew in height, it is necessary to modify the case. We mark the hole and cut out (I used the soldering iron):

Now everything is placed and the radiator sticks out a little from the hole in the case, now we must squeeze out of this maximum benefit. I cut out a 4 mm extension from an outfit-airplane and a plastic cover:

We make in the case the recesses under the secret heads, collect the duct. I also bit off the excess bolts and polished the cuts:

Since I have an enlarged capacity battery, it raises the back of the netbook above the surface and the duct is precisely placed in this gap. Next, I collected a netbook and began to test:

The results of the modification now air from the cooler passes along the following path: part of the plate above the processor atom H270, a little up, along the air duct through additional radiators, after which it goes outside the side of the case (now you can put on your feet and will blow your side and not in the leg).

For the test, I warmed up a netbook by the Source engine (ran to HL2 DM, little FPS) and 3DMark 2001SE, the maximum temperature reached 53 degrees, which I consider a good result. When removing the load, the temperature quickly subsides, warm air blows from the duct. In simple temperature fluctuates around 41.45 degrees:

(click on the picture to increase) I have a temperature on a netbook (pharmacy 2 hours. 53 min.)

Min. A few minutes after turning on. Max. temperature when I drove 3dmark.

Restoring the cooling system MSI GE60. Replacement of the heat.catering tube ⁠

The first experiment to replace the heat rod tube. Experimental. MSI GE60 laptop, which has depressurized a tube that removes heat from the processor.

The laptop came to repair with a banal problem: “overheating, inhibits”.

Naturally, first of all, they cleaned and replaced thermal grease. The temperature on the video chip fell 20 degrees, but the processor was both Trottli and Trottlit.

За качество фото прошу прощения. Изначально не предполагал писать пост. Хотел только видео опубликовать. Сейчас же решил запилить в виде поста, для вашего удобства. Поэтому, все фото. это скрины из видео, полный вариант которого будет в конце.

They dismantled again. Hanging a hairdryer on the cooling system. But the warmth is not discharged.

Usually, in such cases, we change from. But this could not be found, not from suppliers, not at disassembly. And the laptop must be saved urgently. Of course, you can order at international sites, but 2 factors stop here:

I somehow ordered CO for another laptop. A bent and with a depressurized tube came. The money was returned, but by decision AE had to be sent back. Lost time and money (for sending).

It was decided to carry out an examinent replacement for the replacement of the tube. The donor made with ASUS K52. Her tube, almost accurately coincides in size and shape C C GE60.

We take all the excess from the tube with a hair dryer and a soldering iron.

There were no problems with heat plates. But with a radiator grate, I had to get up.

I tried different options. The most effective was heated with a hairdryer and removing the radiator plate using tweezers.

They released a donor pipe from everything superfluous.

Now we will remove the damaged pipe with GE60, also, using a soldering iron and a hair dryer. So that the radiator plates do not scatter and are not soldered from the tubes that drop the heat from the video chip, we firmly fuse them with a capet (heat.resistant sticky tape).

Try the pipe from the K52 in the GE60 case. It gets up perfectly!

We solder the tube to the radiator, having previously touched it and the radiator by the solder PO-61. The melting temperature of this solder is below the shockless, therefore, only a hairdryer set for 400 degrees is enough here.

That’s what happened. There is not a big jamb. A little solder was numb between the radiator plates. Not critical.

Now we transplant the heat.catering plate GE60. In order to accurately prohibit it, we will use the template that appeared in the second photo. Since a lot of heat is discharged to the radiator, we will additionally use the soldering iron.

We check how heat is given. Everything is fine. the tube, during the repair process did not dilute.

We check how well the heat.high plates fit to the crystals of the processor and video chip. We see that it does not fit evenly.

We will a little bent the phone and achieve the perfect fit.

The photo shows that the plate does not evenly fit the video chip. But this is because of a jammed thermal laying. She was later replaced and listed perfectly. The temperature on the video chip. 52-53 degrees with a dough on a bagel of a fur and vale.

Computer master. Gaming laptops⁠ ⁠

Today there will be the story of “about” game “laptops”

My acquaintance with gaming laptops, I started back in 2010, and almost all the observations made then were confirmed later.

What is it, a gaming laptop, first about the pluses:

1) This is a beautiful stylish design, and pleasant tactile sensations.

2) high.quality keyboard, good sound

3) a good matrix, before it was TFT, now IPS, with high resolution.

5) sufficient amount of RAM

Now a little about the minuses, the gaming laptop is

1) This is a heavy thing, with a huge power supply, to carry with you uncomfortable

2) low autonomy, good iron eats a battery very actively.

3) noisy fans, under load rotation speed of 3500-5000 rpm, is the norm, it is very noisy, playing is not comfortable without headphones

4) very hot, it is impossible to play on your knees, you can burn yourself

5) a cooling stand, this is just a necessity and a little more noise.

6) performance by 30%.40% lower than on a full-fledged computer with a similar configuration

7) the impossibility of upgrade, except HDD and DDR

And now the specifics, my first gaming laptop was Acer 5930g, on the GeForce GT9600M

Wildly beautiful and productive, with a bright screen, good sound, but a year later, in heavy games, such as Crysis and Tomb Raider: Underworld, he was warmed up after a couple of hours, which led me to buy a cooler Master Notepal U2 cooling stand

This solved the problem of turning off, but not overheating, as you understand the replacement of thermal paste and cleaning the cooling system, they also did not bring much benefit.

Closer to the third year of use, overheating did its job, and the video card began to crawl, periodically issue colored horizontal stripes on the screen, after a few seconds merging into the white screen. In the beginning, this happened only after serious loads, then it became regular, first once a week, then almost every day, heating the chip with a hairdryer, set aside the solution for about six months, and after six months, it finally turned into a multimedia laptop, because, the launch of any He led the games, to an emergency shutdown, in this form it lasted a couple of years until the video card was finally burned, the repair was not appropriate, and I sold the remaining spare parts on Avito.

My next laptop was Sony VAIO on Core i5 and Radeon 5650, it was not a game one, but it was possible to play it, I was perfectly served, did not warm me up, did not make noise, even Windows did not have to rearrange it, and was sold to it. Avito in perfect condition for 12 t.R. in 2014.

Sold was not just like that, but because at about this time, two friends and I fell ill with MSI gaming laptops.

First, my friend Sergey in 2012, acquired the new MSI GT60 (Core i7 3610QM/8GB/GTX570M), it was a beast, heavy with a hefty power supply, but which dragged, absolutely all modern games, on Full HD resolution.

I was next in 2014 after Sony’s sale, I bought it for Avito for a funny 25t.R., The one.year.old MSI GE60 (Core i5 4200h/8GB/GTX 760M)

And at about the same time, another of our common friend Dimon also acquired Avito, and a little b.u. MSI GT70 (Core i7 4700MQ/16GB/GTX680M) for 40t.R.

These were wonderful times when we all gathered in the apartment, transferred a table from the kitchen, and under a beer we drove a platoon to World of Tanks.

GT60 and GT70, warmed up decently, but the line of 85 degrees did not cross, and my GE60, after a hour of gaming, reached 90-95.

As time has shown, a gaming laptop thing with a very limited shelf life, and increased wear, and after 3 years of active operation, the GTX570M died, first the power chains were rained down, about a month, we were waiting for the spare parts with Ali, the arrival of which the chains were solemnly soldered which gave another six months of the game life, after which the chip dump came, and the final failure of the vidyuhi, after which the video card was sent to the scrap, and the laptop migrated to the parents of a friend where on do still serves perfectly, on an integrated vidyuha.

Yes, if you have died a video card in a computer is easy to purchase and replace it, but if you have died in your laptop, then you have one way for repair.

Laptop video cards have a very narrow compatibility range, which makes upgrade it is impossible, and BIOS incompatibility will not allow you to install a dell video card on the MSI laptop, without manipulations with firmware.

After the video card is out of order, a friend acquired a computer for an i7 and GTX760, and what was my surprise when this computer gave 1.5 times more FPS than my laptop, and easily dragged the games that my laptop digested with difficulty. And this is quite logical, in the laptop the components are smaller in size, less energy consumption, less heat dissipation, low frequencies, and as a result less performance

About a year later, she began to buggy GTX680M, she worked, then did not work, periodically flew the drivers and there was no way to install them, because the installer simply did not see the video card, as a result there was a decision to sell as it is, with an honest description of a glow video card and a discount, for 30t.R. The laptop was taken in just a couple of days.