Android car radio. Features to Look for in an Android Car Stereo

Features to Look for in an Android Car Stereo

Jeremy Laukkonen is automotive and tech writer for numerous major trade publications. When not researching and testing computers, game consoles or smartphones, he stays up-to-date on the myriad complex systems that power battery electric vehicles.

The main difference between Android car stereos and head units that are designed from the ground up for iOS devices is that there’s no such thing as direct iPod control for Android. However, that’s actually a good thing. Since Android is an open platform, you can find car stereos that actually run on Android, and you can also find head units that are capable of directly interfacing with your Android phone or tablet via USB. This isn’t just the next best thing to direct iPod control—in some cases, it’s even better. Of course, if you prefer wireless connections, then the best Android car stereo for you is going to be one that supports Bluetooth.

Music Browsing and Playback

Depending on how you listen to music in your car, there are a handful of features that may or may not be important to you. If you have a lot of music or podcast files stored on your phone or tablet, then the best Android car stereo for you is going to be one that supports music browsing and playback through the head unit.

This is the sort of functionality that your Apple-devoted friends are getting out of their direct iPod control head units, and it’s pretty nice. Instead of having to fiddle with your phone or tablet to queue up and play songs (which is necessary when you’re using an auxiliary input), you can just browse and select music through the head unit itself.

Android App Control

Of course, not everyone is still chained to physical storage media for their digital music. If you prefer your streaming services (i.e. Pandora, Spotify, etc), then what you’re looking for is a head unit that supports app control. These head units hook into your phone and take direct control of streaming radio apps. Again, this saves you the trouble of having to fiddle around with your phone when you want to skip a track or change the station.

USB vs. Bluetooth

Although some head units are starting to offer USB connections for Android devices, compatibility isn’t always 100 percent. For instance, Pioneer’s maintains a list of the phones that its AppRadio line is compatible with. The list is long, but in some cases, an additional adapter is required. Depending on your listening habits, Bluetooth may be a better option anyway. In that case, the best Android car stereo for you is going to be one that supports the A2DP Bluetooth protocol.

Android Car Stereos

While the term “Android car stereo” can be used in reference to head units that are compatible with Android phones and tablets, there are also a handful of car stereos that actually run on Android. This is a rapidly changing field, and even the latest models of Android car stereos lag significantly behind handsets and tablets.

For instance, Clarion’s Mirage was the first OEM-grade Android-powered head unit. Released in Q1 2012, it ran on Android 2.2 Froyo. At that time, Froyo was already two years old. So if you’re looking for the best Android car stereo, and you want it to actually run the Android OS, make sure to check into what version it’s running.

KENWOOD meets Android Auto ™

Android Auto was designed with safety in mind, helping you to minimize distractions and stay focused on the road. KENWOOD’s multimedia receivers combine Android Auto’s intuitive voice controlled interface, a large 7 touch screen and superior sound quality making it the perfect complement for your in-car life.

Easy to Use

Connecting an Android ™ automatically launches Android Auto

A simple USB connection gives you immediate access to apps, navigation, music and voice control. A simplified touch screen interface combined with voice control provides a safer driving experience.

Enjoy Your Favorite Music Anytime

You can access your stored music collection or if you choose there are over 30 million songs in Google Play Music streaming service.

KENWOOD multimedia receivers include advanced audio features including digital time alignment, digital EQ and digital filters, to fine tune the sound system. In addition, with high voltage preouts a system can be expanded to include amplifiers and high quality speakers for an amazing in-car experience.

Always Find Your Way with Google Maps

Voice control allows you to speak an address, or place you want to go. You can also ask questions such as What restaurants are nearby? or, What is the nearest gas station? and Google Maps will present you a list of options or the best route.

Safely Manage Your Phone

Voice control minimizes distraction by making your calls and checking your voicemail, while keeping you focused on the road.

Go for a drive with KENWOOD and Android Auto.

Live Connected. Drive Connected.

Lineup

Monitor Receiver

Digital Media Receiver

KENWOOD is a trademark or registered trademark of JVC KENWOOD Corporation in the U.S. and/or other countries.

Information contained and specifications may be changed without notice. All screen picture and videos are simulated. iPods, iPhones, Android smartphones or any other accessories shown in are not supplied, and must be purchased separately.

Android, Android Auto, Google Play and other marks are trademarks of Google Inc. All other brands, product names, logos, or trademarks are the property of their respective holders.

© 2017 JVCKENWOOD Corporation

Top 5 Cheap Android Auto Head Units for Your Car

Android Auto and CarPlay are on the shortlists of the majority of new car buyers today, and they are perhaps the easiest way to mirror the mobile interface to the larger screen in the cabin.

The adoption of both systems has been skyrocketing since at least 2017, with most car manufacturers now offering them as standard equipment on new models.

Owners of older cars aren’t left behind, as they can always install Android Auto and CarPlay in their vehicles with the help of aftermarket upgrades. Third-party head units from the likes of Sony, Pioneer, Alpine, JVC, and others come with support for Android Auto, CarPlay, or both, sometimes providing new-generation capabilities as well, such as floating displays.

If you too are looking for such an upgrade, the list below includes the five most affordable head units that support Android Auto. Before ordering though, make sure they fit your car.

Boss BE7ACP-FT

If you don’t want to spend a fortune on getting Android Auto in your car, Boss has a single-DIN unit that costs less than an Apple Watch SE.

The BE7ACP-FT model doesn’t come with CD or DVD support, but that’s quite alright if you’re only interested in Android Auto. You can play your favorite tunes from the mobile device, but at the same time, it also sports Bluetooth and USB support.

The media receiver can also run CarPlay, and if your vehicle is equipped with a parking camera, it boasts dedicated input to see real-time video on the screen.

Only a wired connection is supported for Android Auto, but this isn’t at all surprising given the price.

Boss BE7ACP-FT launched with a 299.99 price tag, but you can find it online today for just 189.

Dual DMCPA70

Dual’s most affordable Android Auto media receiver is almost as cheap as the Boss unit, so it comes without CD and DVD support as well.

On the other hand, it can run both Android Auto and CarPlay with a wired connection. The interface is displayed on a 7-inch touchscreen with a 1024×600 pixels resolution.

The Dual DMCPA70 also comes with a series of extras, including a USB port, a wireless IR remote that is included in the box, Bluetooth, and a rear camera port.

The device can be found online for as low as 199.99.

Jensen CAR710

Jensen may not be as popular as Pioneer or Sony, but it still makes Android Auto head units that are totally worth checking out. The CAR710 model is living proof, as it integrates both Android Auto and CarPlay support, as well as a USB port with 1.5A charging.

Of course, Bluetooth is also available for hands-free calling and music streaming, and so is USB media playback support.

The device is also fitted with a 7-inch display that comes with touch input.

Jensen sells its most affordable Android Auto head unit at 249.99, but depending on where you look, chances are you can find it at about 200.

JVC KW-V66BT

While Boss and Jensen are also offering several other media units in the same price range, it’s time to look at a more premium model.

The JVC KW-V66BT offers a 6.8-inch capacitive touchscreen, allowing you to run both Android Auto and Apple CarPlay.

In addition to typical specifications, such as Bluetooth integration and a rear-view camera port, the JVC media receiver also supports gesture touch control. With this feature, users can control the music playback or adjust the volume with gestures on the display. For instance, if you want to turn the volume up, you just need to make a circular gesture to the right.

The double-DIN JVC KW.V66BT typically sells for about 300, but if you’re lucky, you can find it for as low as 260.

Pioneer DMH-1770NEX

Here comes the superstar. Pioneer is already one of the leading names in the media receiver market, and the company has tried to tackle as many price ranges as possible.

As far as the budget category is concerned, the DMH-1770NEX is Pioneer’s main model, coming with a 6.8-inch capacitive touchscreen capable of running both Android Auto and CarPlay via a wired connection.

With built-in Bluetooth, Pioneer’s head unit also allows wireless music playback and phone calls without even having to run Android Auto.

Just like the rest of the models in this price range, Pioneer DMH-1770NEX is also backup camera-ready, so you can automatically get a rear view on the screen when you go into reverse. Thanks to its integration, Pioneer’s head unit then returns to the source screen that was used before activating the parking camera.

Just as expected, DMH-1770NEX isn’t exactly as affordable as the Boss media receiver, and this makes perfect sense given it wears the Pioneer logo. You can purchase it for about 300, but if you get it during a sale, a 10 to 15 percent discount is also likely.

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Bogdan keeps an eye on how technology is taking over the car world. His long-term goals are buying an 18-wheeler because he needs more space for his kid’s toys, and convincing Google and Apple that Android Auto and CarPlay deserve at least as much attention as their phones. Full profile

Introduction: Turn Your Android Tablet Into a Car Head Unit

I recently finished integrating a docking system in my 2005 Subaru Baja for my Asus Nexus 7 (2013). Here’s a write-up about my project with some pictures and a parts list for anyone looking to do something similar.

A standard car radio is fine, but what if you want more functionality out of the space in your dashboard? You can choose to install upgrade components, such as a GPS, better sound system, backup camera, even an on-board computer. But these options can cost hundreds, if not thousands, for equipment and labor. I have enjoyed using an Android tablet for some time now, and realized that all of the functionality I wanted in my car was built right into this system. So, why not integrate the tablet into the dashboard of my car instead of messing with expensive upgrades? Well, that’s exactly what I’ve done.

I began this project quite a while ago, and spent plenty of time researching on Google and forums for similar projects, compiling ideas and parts, and learning more about the software and hardware requirements for this build.

• Use my tablet as an Android interface with my car to replace several devices (Music, FM and internet radio, USB thumb drive, Maps and GPS navigation, and OBDII scanner/car diagnostic info).
• Make the tablet removable to prevent theft and for allow home use.
• Make the interface a seamless, plug-and-play-and drive setup with minimal connections and manipulations to be made each time the tablet is plugged in.
• Easily returnable to stock if I decide to sell my car.

Apps to be used in the car

• AutoMate

• Beta app that acts as the tablet’s home screen. Controls music, navigation, and apps. (Props to Kahtaf Alam, who developed this app)

• Diagnostic app with an ELM327 Bluetooth OBDII scanner interface

• FM radio receiver app. Needs RTL2832U driver for DVB-T to work

Required Tools and Materials

• Wire Stripper/cutter/crimper
• Multi-meter
• Soldering Iron
• Heat shrink tubing
• Epoxy putty (I like Quick-Steel)
• PlexiGlass
• Silicon Glue
• Screwdrivers/pliers

Step 1: Check Out the Video

It’s hard to describe this build in words, so showing you will give you the best idea of what this Instructable is all about. Also, if you feel so inclined, subscribe to my YouTube channel. JakeOfAllTrades. I will post more videos of projects and creations in the future. Enjoy!

Step 2: Basic Steps

Okay, because this process is highly customized to the type of car and tablet you’re using, as well as your personal goals and desired operation, I’ll outline a rough guide for how you’ll want to install a tablet into your car, and follow up with what I personally did and the challenges I faced.

Recipe for a Tablet Head unit Installation

• Remove your old head unit: Follow your manufacturer’s manual for removal steps. Usually this involves removing some trim pieces from the dash and/or console and getting to some hard to reach screws, plus a bit of elbow grease to slide the radio from its housing, then unplugging the stereo wiring harness.
• Set up a power/charging system: You have a few options here. You can run a line straight from your battery, which will provide constant power unless you add a switch (be sure to use an in-line fuse here), or you can run wiring from an existing unused fuse right off the fuse box. Depending on which fuse you pick, it will either be switched by the ignition or constant. Either way, you’ll need some conversion hardware to step the 12 VDC from the battery down to 5 VDC for your device. Standard phone/tablet USB chargers have this circuitry built in, so it’s Smart to use that. You could also wire up a DC to DC converter. If your tablet supports Qi wireless charging, that could be a viable option to keep the installation a bit cleaner.
• Set up audio equipment: You’re going to need a way to get sound from your tablet to the speakers. Possibilities include Bluetooth adapters, headphone jack audio, or USB audio. Then you’ll need to process the sound, so you’re going to need an amplifier and possibly an equalizer. Finally, you’ll need wiring to get the sound from the amp to the speakers. You can run speaker cable through your car to aftermarket speakers, but if you want to keep your original car speakers you’ll need a manufacturer-specific stereo harness to match up to the one you unplugged from the head unit you removed.
• Set up data equipment: This is entirely optional and dependent on what extra tasks you want your tablet to do. You can use Bluetooth peripherals, a USB flash drives, NFC tags, rear-view cameras, and myriad other things. These are usually hooked up to the tablet’s USB port with a hub or via Bluetooth. You need to be sure your tablet can support such things, it will be called USB On the Go (OTG), which basically means it can detect data input, not just send data out of the USB port.
• Figure out placement and a mounting system. Tons of options here. If you don’t want to rip out your head unit, you can install the tablet on your dashboard or over the original head unit. You can even mount it to the glove box or a cup holder. Figure out a placement that won’t distract your driving, but is convenient enough to not be a struggle to use. You’ll also have to decide where to place your plugs if you’re using an aux cable or USB for charging. Think about wiring and avoiding clutter. If you to permanently install your tablet you may choose to fabricate a mounting system into your dashboard. You can make this as stylish or as simple as you’d like.
• Pick an interface: This has to deal with the apps and themes you want on the tablet itself. Usually a special launcher or automotive app is nice here. Android Auto is an up and coming theme for cars, you may choose to emulate that as closely as you’d like. Pick an interface that gives you easy access to all the options you’ve created for yourself and minimizes clutter.
• Test EVERYTHING: A good multi-meter will carry you a long ways here. Check and recheck all connections for proper voltage and current. Compare your amplifier’s specifications to your audio outputs to make sure you won’t fry anything. Make sure you have solid grounding practices with your electronics so nothing weird happens or shorts out. I remember my car’s clock would reset every time I turned the car off and couldn’t figure out why. Turns out one of my cable splices on the stereo harness had come loose and was grounding out. So just make sure your hardware and software are solid and mesh well together.

Step 3: Audio Lesson

To meet my goals, I decided I wanted to completely remove my car’s radio in lieu of doing a tablet mounting system that connects to the head unit via Bluetooth or a headphone jack, which is what you typically see with these types of builds. I wanted my tablet to BE my head unit, thus minimizing noise and loss of sound quality, as well as reducing the amount of connections and plug ins that had to be made just to get music to play.

I wanted to use the tablet to play music, perform GPS duties, and run OBDII diagnostic information. To play music, I needed a way to get sound from the tablet to the speakers. I didn’t want to use the aux port on the tablet. Here’s why: I knew I would be using the micro-USB port for charging, so another connection on the opposite side of the dock sounded messy. If I could use the micro USB port for charging AND music output, along with other data output of course, that would keep things simpler and mean a cleaner installation.

Here’s a quick lesson on audio signals: Traditionally, audio signals are analog, which is good because speakers require an analog signal to make sound. However, every source of data from a device is digital. This digital signal is converted in something called a DAC (digital to analog converter). When it comes to sound signals, usually a headphone jack is the DAC (the digital sound is converted to analog in the headphone port and an analog signal goes up to your headphones). Now, The Nexus 7’s internal DAC is pretty weak and sound quality would suffer when played by large car speakers (I’m no audiophile, but I just wanted to do this right). However, the makers of this tablet allowed for the digital audio signal to be an output of the micro-USB port. This USB Audio allows the audio data to travel through digital devices, such as a USB hub, as well as being converted by something other than the headphone jack.

Step 4: Sound Solution

Once I had USB audio figured out, I needed an external DAC to allow for an analog signal to go to my amplifier. Since I was already going to be using a USB hub, a USB DAC was perfect. I went with a TurtleBeach Micro II, because it’s small, cheap, and good quality. It plugs into the USB hub, which connects to the tablet, and puts out an analog signal via an Aux port. Now, to amplify the audio coming off of the DAC, I needed an amplifier. I went with the Alpine KTP-445U Power Pack. It’s designed to go behind a dash or in a glove compartment. It’s small and powerful, has great heat dissipation, and can be powered off of the radio’s existing wiring, perfect for a seamless installation. It allows for an RCA input, which meant I needed an aux-to-RCA adapter to come off of the USB DAC. On the output side of the amp, there is a wiring harness that consists of all the wires needed to make music happen (speakers and power). I used a Subaru-specific stereo adapter to get the speaker wires and power (12V constant and 12V ignition) from the amp to match my car’s stereo wiring harness. I just spliced the wiring harness off the amp to the stereo adapter wires, which essentially allowed me to plug it into the wiring loom that I unplugged from the original radio.

So, I’m getting sound out of my tablet’s micro-USB port, sending it through a USB hub to a DAC, splitting it by channels, amplifying it, and sending it out to the speakers. Usually this is all done within a radio’s wiring, but I had to piece it apart myself. The end result is amazing sound quality and a very clean installation of the tablet.

Step 5: Peripherals and Power

Next, I wanted to be able to play FM radio in my car as well as stored and internet music. This is where a DVB-T comes into play. It’s a USB stick that receives FM radio and plugs into my 4-port USB hub. It comes with a small antenna that plugs into that back of the stick. But I wanted to use my car’s antenna rather than have to mount a tiny antenna on my dashboard. So I used an antenna extension cable and spliced it with the male end of the DVB-T’s antenna that plugs into the back. I found the antenna wire that I unplugged from the original radio I removed, and plugged in my makeshift adapter. It worked flawlessly!

I also purchased a USB flash drive to hold music and movies to plug into the hub. So, in my USB hub, there is a USB flash drive, a DVB-T stick for radio, and a USB DAC for converting the audio signal from my tablet.

To connect everything to the N7, I needed an OTG-Y cable. This allows for 1 input into the tablet (micro USB) and splits the charging side and the data side of the build. On the data side, the USB hub plugs into the female end of the OTG-Y cable. This hub holds the USB DAC for signal processing, DVB-T, and flash drive, all mentioned before. If I decide I want to install some sort of backup camera, I can use that 4th port for it. On the charging side, I have a simple USB charging cable that plugs into a USB-cigarette lighter charger. The one I used (and added to the parts list link) draws the right amount of current, and is enough to charge the tablet rather than just maintain or slow the drain on the battery. This is plugged into a cigarette outlet that I added, so as to not take up the console’s cigarette outlet and have exposed wiring. I went with a two-port cigarette lighter, just in case I wanted to use the other port to charge my phone. To add the socket, I ran wiring behind the dash and steering column and into the fuse box under the steering wheel. I used an Add-A-Fuse to pull power from a switched 12V source. I used the radio‘s fuse, just because I knew it worked and the radio wasn’t using it anymore.

Step 6: Box It All Up

I wanted all of these devices and wiring to fit neatly inside the dash where the radio used to be. So I made a plexiglass box to hold everything. I just measured the dimensions of the radio and cut the plexiglass and glued it together with silicone glue. There is a small slot in the front of the box that is just big enough for my hand, so I can access certain parts that I want to mess with, like the charging socket and the USB hub. I bought a new dash trim piece for this project, so that I could keep the radio and the stock trim piece together to return everything to stock should I sell this car. I cut up this new trim piece to fit the mounting solution.

I decided to go with a RAM mount made for 7 tablets (see parts list). I used epoxy putty to hold the mount in, and then I used the putty to fix the male end of the OTG-Y cable so that the tablet will slide into the mount and be plugged in. This mount is very secure and allows for the whole screen to be seen. It also allows me to easily install my tablet and find the plug, and then remove it whenever I’m leaving the car.

Step 7: Software and Connectivity

Now for a note on software.

First off, you may not be able to use USB Audio, it’s very software-specific. If you’re using an Android device, it’s software version 5.0 (Lollipop) and above comes with USB Audio native. If not, you may need to use a custom ROM or kernal that allows for it. This gets rather tricky and requires rooting the device and voiding your warranty. So, unless you have experience messing with your tablet’s software like that, I would recommend you use another method to make audio work for you.

Next, the nice thing about this project is that you can vastly increase your car’s functionality with applications designed for your car. For example, the Torque app allows you to install receive your car’s diagnostics and engine information from a Bluetooth OBDII scanner that costs about 15. You just plug it into the OBDII port (usually under your dash on the driver’s side) and connect it to the app. It’s incredibly useful for engine light scans, fuel economy information, even GPS tracking. Which brings me to my next point.

You can also use your tablet as a GPS system. There are many apps out there that offer maps and turn-by-turn navigation instructions. I personally use Google Maps and Navigation. These apps use your tablet’s GPS hardware, but are greatly amplified if your tablet is connected to Wi-Fi. Some tablets have 3G or 4G, but mine is Wi-Fi only. Which brings me to my next point.

If you are into rooting and installing custom ROMs on your device, you are probably familiar with Wi-Fi tethering. I use my phone for tethering when my tablet is installed. It allows the tablet to use high-quality GPS, stream music, and give me voice-activated search and notifications. If your data plan supports it, I highly recommend tethering, or a mobile hot spot.

One last note on connectivity: I’ve found that i wasted some time after plugging in my tablet with turning on all of these apps and getting it ready for a drive. This is where NFC tags are invaluable. They can be used to run pre-programmed tasks just by touching them to your device. I have one NFC tag in my car to turn on and off my phone’s Wi-Fi hot spot. I also have a tag on the tablet’s mount that turns on the GPS and Bluetooth, as well as starts the car docking app AutoMate. They’re very handy and save you tons of time.

Step 8: Conclusion: Test and Optimize

Through every step of this project, be sure you’re testing every component, checking grounds, and ensuring good connections. From experience, I can tell you that there is no bigger headache than getting all of your equipment and wiring shoved into the dash and then realizing it doesn’t work or there is some bug you need to work out. Check for continuity through your amplifier and wiring harnesses, ensure your power is on/off when you expect it to be, make sure your sound is behaving at high volumes.

Also, find what works for you. Choose apps that make sense to you and enhance your driving experience, and that don’t distract you from the task at hand. Make sure you can safely operate your tablet and your car at the same time. Optimize your build to your specific needs, and have fun with it!

Thank you for reading all the way through this, and I hope you gained something from it all. Good luck on your future projects!

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Комментарии и мнения владельцев

One thing I did on mine a few years ago was VPN into my raspberrypi so I could see the webcam I used for a backup camera. Yes, I will eventually put up an instructable on how to do this. 🙂

Please tell me where I can find the guide. Thanks!

HAHA you fellas are reading my mind or something, I swear! LOL

Don’t you mean VNC. Kinda sounds like a pain to me.

Awesome idea! I can’t wait to see that ible!

Hi, able to advise how do i connect my rear view camera video to my Andriod Tablet when i am reversing my car?

Very nice and detailed write-up, no doubt your efforts have been extremely helpful to hobbyists like myself. I have done much of your project already on my 2019 Toyota 4Runner. the tablet installation turned out very simple and easily installed/removed (I’ll try attach a picture or two. Unless I overlooked it in your write-up I didn’t see any mention of how to display back-up camera video into your tablet. Navigation, audio, and using the Torque app via Bluetooth have all worked well but I am stumped with trying to display a front mounted vehicle camera and getting my new 8” Samsung tablet to see the signal coming through the OTG Y cable. I have tried a number of apps to process the camera feed but all of them carry the same error message “unable to detect USB device”. I have tried several different cameras yielding same result. I read where I needed to deep dive into tablet settings to debug the Type c USB port. did that but no joy. I’m being told it’s an analog vs digital issue. makes sense but how to solve?

From what I’ve read there are an awful lot of off-road drivers that would love to be able to accomplish this and here’s the reason: in some off-roading situations you need a human “spotter” to ensure your front wheels stay out of harms way. a camera would be very helpful with this scenario.

Anxiously awaiting your input on this. thank you!

Hm Interesting! I decided against trying to implement a backup camera back when I wrote this. I’m sure that it’s possible because I use my phone as a camera monitor using an app called USB Camera Pro, and I have an HDMI to USB-C capture card that handles that signal negotiation into the phone (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B091NX27S8?psc=1ref=ppx.

And maybe you can use an RCA to HDMI converter like this (https://tinyurl.com/4fbxactx). So it’ll go, Camera. RCA/HDMI. HDMI cable. Capture Card. Tablet. Now I have zero idea if that will actually work. But that’s where I’d start.

I bought one of the Tesla Style Android units. The UI on it is terrible. I’m ok with computers but coding and Programming is something I’m new to. How do you root one of these without bricking it? I’m aiming at updating the UI to something a bit better and will use Nova Launcher, probably. I’ve got the Pro Version of Car Launcher but I’m not to crazy about it either.

The original poster did a great job on his. I have been thinking about something like this for a few years now and someone on the Cruze board pointed the Tesla style out to me. Now, the unit in my LTZ/RS sound really, really surprised me as I was not expecting much. Now that I’m more familiar with these unit I’ve come to find out that if you do go that route, if you do not want to add an external amp, make sure you get one with the TDA7850 built in Amp. Tonight, I just installed one in my nephew’s Cruze. His audio is bad, the volume from 2-19 basically goes up and stays at what I’d say is 7 and 19-30, it’s like that’s when built in amp actually works and volume level is considerably louder but basically stays the same from 19 to 30 and the EQ doesn’t work at all. The seller said it had the 7850 amp capacitor but after taking it apart and adding thermal grease on the PX5 board, it has the 7388 amp capacitor. I’ve read nothing good about it at all. I told him to return it. So, unhooked it, boxed it up and Amazon sent him a shipping label. I may go this route but if it’s not to hard rooting these I may root mine and give it to my nephew and build my own. That I can do but I wish I was good at programming. Anyways, great work to OG Poster.