Laptop power supply not working
The main causes of breakdown
The AC adapter or laptop power supply is the most important part of every laptop. The name “node” was mentioned for a reason, it contains the most important information about the main purpose of this node, namely the adaptation of the parameters of electrical networks at the entrance to the laptop while protecting the rest of the electronic filling of the device.
The charger, or in other words, as we have already found out, the laptop power supply is the first to face the danger in the form of power surges, taking on the entire blow and all the results of the unstable operation of the mains. Unfortunately, sudden power surges are a common problem these days. Statistics show that it is the drops in the network that are the first factor in the failure of network adapters.
The second reason is the problems of laptop power supplies associated with incorrect operation of laptop batteries, which lead to a change in the limited loads on the power supply circuit and subsequently to its breakdown.
Physical impact can cause damage to the laptop charger. As a rule, we do not observe the temperature regime around the device, we are inaccurate in the on / off process, and we do not monitor the condition of the wire. creases or twists are frequent our companions, there are mechanical damages of various nature. all this not only disables the power supply unit, but, first of all, is unsafe for health, and sometimes for life!
Signs of a malfunctioning laptop power supply
If you notice the following signs in the operation of your laptop and the network adapter, then something is definitely wrong with the power supply:
laptop charger repairing
- The laptop stopped turning on for no obvious reason.
- The laptop turns off by itself after a short time of operation.
- Your battery’s charging time has increased or your laptop is not charging at all.
- The power supply gets very hot when plugged in.
- Charger operation depends on how the wires or the case of the laptop power supply are located.
Please note that a malfunctioning power supply will most likely lead to serious problems with the laptop itself and you will have to spend a large amount to fix these problems.
Therefore, if you suspect that your network adapter is not working correctly, then we advise you not to hesitate with diagnostics and subsequent repair or replacement with a new network adapter. Remember the charger guidelines if you want the power adapter to last you one year.
Our catalog contains models of power supplies for various laptops: Asus, Lenovo, Toshiba, Sony, Acer, Dell, Samsung, HP.
You can read about how to choose a network adapter for a laptop and what characteristics to pay attention to in our article “How to choose a power supply for a laptop”
Why my charger doesn’t work?
Every time you plug your HP laptop charger into your laptop, a notification should appear on your desktop that your device is charging. You can find this notification in the lower right corner of the screen.
Before you assume that your HP laptop charger is defective, check your laptop battery. Sometimes the fault is not in the charger. The battery cannot charge or store energy properly. In this case, you need to replace the laptop battery, not the charger.
You should also check that the outlet is working properly. A faulty power outlet will interfere with charging your laptop.
If you find that the battery is working fine after running the appropriate HP diagnostics (and there are no problems with the outlet), you should pay attention to the device’s power adapter. Just do not rush to throw away the charger, because it contains information on which you need to choose a new power supply. You can also use the catalog that can find charging by laptop model on Zeto.ua.
If your HP laptop charger is not working, it could be due to one or more of the following:
- Older Notebook Charger. HP Notebook Chargers will wear out over time, just like other components in your laptop.
- Defective adapter cable. Sometimes the cable doesn’t provide enough power or charge for your laptop.
- Power supply problems. The power supply for your HP notebook charger may be out of order. You can check this by taking a charger of the same model and checking if the laptop is charging from this borrowed device.
- Defective power cord. There may be a problem with the charger cord on your HP laptop, such as a loose connector. This prevents the battery from charging properly.
Check laptop connection to charger
The HP laptop charger should fit snugly into the DC jack so you don’t have to yank the cable to charge the device. If the charger cable seems loose, secure it with electrical tape. Thus, the laptop battery can be powered by the charger.
Note: This is a temporary fix. A bad connection can get worse over time. So, send your laptop to a technician for a more technical assessment of the problem.
Why and what to do if your HP laptop power supply is not working
One of the most important components of a laptop is the laptop charger. Without this handy device, your laptop battery will run out and your laptop will become unusable.
Your laptop charger can last for years with proper care. However, there will come a time when this device will stop working properly. If you have an HP laptop and your charger isn’t working, take a look at this quick start guide.
How to troubleshoot charger problems?
Before buying a new HP laptop charger for your device, you want to first check if the issue is still minor. After all, you don’t want to waste money on a new charger if you can fix a minor issue.
Here are some troubleshooting tips to follow:
Disconnect and reinstall the laptop battery
Start by turning off your laptop. Then turn it upside down. Look for the latch that secures the battery.
Open the latch correctly. The battery should pop out. If not, pull slightly.
Next, clean the laptop battery connectors by applying a small amount of rubbing alcohol to the tip of the connector swab. Dirt and other debris can build up and interfere with the connection, giving the impression of a faulty HP laptop charger.
Wait for the alcohol to dry before reinstalling the battery. Install the latch, secure it and plug in the power cord to test if the laptop will charge.
Turn on laptop without battery
This troubleshooting step will determine if the battery or charger is faulty. Start by removing your laptop battery. Then turn on the laptop using only the charger. If the laptop turns on, then the battery needs to be replaced. If the laptop won’t turn on, the problem might be with the charger.
Why the laptop won’t turn on?
We will determine the stages of loading the laptop until it is fully turned on. We consider that the operating system has been successfully booted into full power on. The desktop image is there, the mouse and trackpad are working. To get to this point, the laptop goes through several stages:
- power on;
- initialization and appearance of the image on the display;
- loading the operating system;
- working operating system.
Laptop won’t turn on
Option 1. We connect the power supply, but the indicators do not light up. The laptop does not respond when the power button is pressed. The problem may not be with the computer, but with the outlet. We are trying to connect something to it, for example, a table lamp.
If the socket is working properly, then we check the power supply. The best option. use a serviceable power supply. If the outlet and power supply are working, then the problem is with the laptop. Either the power controller or the power circuits on the motherboard are faulty. Such repair requires qualifications and components, so it is better to go straight to the service center.
Option 2. When you connect the power supply on the laptop, the power and battery indicators light up. This means that the power supply is working properly. But the laptop does not respond to the power button, the cooler and hard drive show no signs of life. Unplug the power and leave the laptop for 2-3 minutes. Then connect the power. Should help.
Problems with the RAM appear similarly. Disconnect the computer from power, remove the memory modules from the slots, and then reinstall them. You can install the module in another slot, if available. If the laptop has two memory slots, then check their serviceability one by one by running the laptop to one memory module. The check will show whether the problem is in the memory modules or in the slots. If the memory fails, then we buy a new module. Otherwise, we take the laptop to the service center.
Laptop hard drive defective
The laptop turned on, the indicators were blinking, and concise lines of system information appeared on the screen. That was the end of it. The operating system does not load further. The hard drive is most likely to blame for this situation.
Laptop does not initialize
The laptop turned on, the cooler started up, the lights blinked, but then nothing happens. The cooler is noisy, but there is no image. Most likely, the problem is in the display. First of all, read the article on how to connect your laptop to your TV. If there is an image on the external screen, then the problem is with the laptop display. Either the display itself is broken, or the cable that connects it to the motherboard.
If the display is working properly, then the following is likely:
- problems with the processor, memory or video chip;
- BIOS problem.
Laptop diagnostics and BIOS reinstallation are best solved in the service center.
Leave your opinion and wishes to the article “Why does the laptop not turn on?”
The laptop power supply is not working. How to fix?
An ordinary laptop power supply is a very compact and rather powerful switching power supply.
In the event of a malfunction, many simply throw it away, and buy a universal power supply unit for laptops for replacement, the cost of which starts from 1000 rubles. But in most cases, you can fix such a block with your own hands.
It’s about repairing a power supply from an Asus laptop. It is also an AC / DC power adapter. Model ADP-90CD. Output voltage 19V, maximum load current 4.74A.
The power supply itself was working, which was clear from the presence of a green LED indication. The voltage at the output plug corresponded to what is indicated on the label. 19V.
There was no break in the connecting wires or breakage of the plug. But when the power supply was connected to the laptop, the battery did not start charging, and the green indicator on its case went out and glowed at half the original brightness.
It was also heard that the unit beeps. It became clear that the switching power supply was trying to start, but for some reason, either an overload or short-circuit protection was triggered.
A few words about how you can open the case of such a power supply. It is no secret that it is made sealed, and the design itself does not imply disassembly. For this we need several tools.
We take a hand jigsaw or a canvas from it. It is better to take the canvas on metal with a fine tooth. The power supply itself is best clamped in a vice. If they are not there, then you can contrive and do without them.
Next, with a manual jigsaw, we cut into the depth of the body by 2-3 mm. in the middle of the body along the connecting seam. The cut must be done carefully. If you overdo it, you can damage the circuit board or electronic filling.
Then we take a flat screwdriver with a wide edge, insert it into the cut and unclip the halves of the case. There is no need to rush. When separating the halves of the case, a characteristic click should occur.
After the power supply case is opened, we remove the plastic dust with a brush or a brush, we take out the electronic filling.
To inspect the elements on the printed circuit board, you will need to remove the aluminum radiator bar. In my case, the bar was attached to other parts of the radiator with latches, and was also glued to the transformer with some kind of silicone sealant. I managed to separate the bar from the transformer with a sharp blade of a knife.
The photo shows the electronic filling of our block.
The fault itself did not take long to look for. Even before opening the case, I did test turns. After a couple of connections to the 220V network, something crackled inside the unit and the green indicator indicating work was completely extinguished.
When inspecting the case, a liquid electrolyte was found, which leaked into the gap between the network connector and the elements of the case. It became clear that the power supply unit ceased to function normally due to the fact that the electrolytic capacitor 120 uF 420V “slammed” due to exceeding the operating voltage in the 220V power grid. Quite an ordinary and widespread malfunction.
When the capacitor was dismantled, its outer shell crumbled. Apparently lost its properties due to prolonged heating.
The safety valve in the upper part of the housing is “swollen”. this is a sure sign of a faulty capacitor.
Here’s another example with a faulty capacitor. This is a different laptop power adapter. Pay attention to the protective notch on the top of the condenser housing. She broke open from the pressure of the boiling electrolyte.
In most cases, bringing the PSU back to life is pretty easy. First you need to replace the main culprit of the breakdown.
At that time, I had two suitable capacitors at hand. I decided not to install the SAMWHA 82 uF 450V capacitor, although it was ideally sized.
The fact is that its maximum operating temperature is 85 0 C. It is indicated on its body. And if you consider that the power supply case is compact and not ventilated, then the temperature inside it can be very high.
Long-term heating has a very bad effect on the reliability of electrolytic capacitors. Therefore, I installed a Jamicon capacitor with a capacity of 68 μF 450V, which is designed for operating temperatures up to 105 0 С.
It is worth considering that the capacity of the native capacitor is 120 uF, and the operating voltage is 420V. But I had to put a capacitor with a smaller capacity.
In the process of repairing laptop power supplies, I encountered the fact that it is very difficult to find a replacement for the capacitor. And the point is not at all in capacity or operating voltage, but in its dimensions.
Finding a suitable capacitor that would fit into a cramped case proved to be a daunting task. Therefore, it was decided to install a product of suitable size, albeit a smaller capacity. The main thing is that the capacitor itself is new, of high quality and with an operating voltage of at least 420
450V. As it turned out, even with such capacitors, the power supplies work properly.
When sealing a new electrolytic capacitor, the polarity of the terminals must be strictly observed! Typically, there is a “” or “-” sign next to the hole on the PCB. In addition, a minus can be marked with a black bold line or a mark in the form of a spot.
On the capacitor body on the negative side there is a mark in the form of a strip with a minus sign “-“.
When you turn it on for the first time after repair, keep your distance from the power supply, because if the polarity of the connection is reversed, the capacitor will “pop” again. This can cause the electrolyte to get into the eyes. This is extremely dangerous! Wear protective goggles if possible.
And now I’ll tell you about the “rake” that it is better not to step on.
Before you change anything, you need to thoroughly clean the board and circuit elements from liquid electrolyte. This is not a pleasant occupation.
The fact is that when an electrolytic capacitor slams, the electrolyte inside it breaks out under great pressure in the form of splashes and steam. He, in turn, instantly condenses on the nearby parts, as well as on the elements of the aluminum radiator.
Since the installation of the elements is very tight, and the case itself is small, the electrolyte gets into the most inaccessible places.
Of course, you can cheat, and not clean out all the electrolyte, but this is fraught with problems. The trick is that the electrolyte conducts electric current well. I was convinced of this from my own experience. And although I cleaned the power supply very carefully, I did not begin to solder the choke and clean the surface under it, I hurried.
As a result, after the power supply was assembled and connected to the mains, it worked properly. But after a minute or two, something crackled inside the case, and the power indicator went out.
Dead laptop no power not charging? You can fix it!
After opening it, it turned out that the remaining electrolyte under the throttle closed the circuit. Because of this, the T3.15A 250V fuse on the 220V input circuit has blown. In addition, in the place of the short circuit, everything was covered with soot, and the wire of the choke burned out, which connected its screen and the common wire on the printed circuit board.
The same choke. Burned-out wire restored.
Soot from a short circuit on the PCB directly under the choke.
The first time I replaced the fuse with a new one from a similar power supply. But when it burned down a second time, I decided to restore it. This is what the fuse on the board looks like.
And this is what he has inside. He himself can be easily disassembled, you just need to squeeze the latches at the bottom of the case and remove the cover.
To restore it, you need to remove the remnants of the burnt wire and the remnants of the insulating tube. Take a thin wire and solder it in place of your own. Then collect the fuse.
Someone will say that this is a “bug”. But I disagree. In the event of a short circuit, the thinnest wire in the circuit burns out. Sometimes even the copper tracks on the PCB burn out. So in which case our self-made fuse will do its job. Of course, you can also do with a thin wire jumper by soldering it to the contact dimes on the board.
In some cases, in order to clean out all the electrolyte, it may be necessary to dismantle the cooling radiators, and with them active elements such as MOSFETs and dual diodes.
As you can see, liquid electrolyte can also remain under coil products, such as chokes. Even if it dries out, in the future, corrosion of the leads may begin because of it. An illustrative example is in front of you. Due to electrolyte residues, one of the capacitor leads in the input filter completely corroded and fell off. This is one of the laptop power adapters that I have been repaired.
Let’s go back to our power supply. After cleaning from electrolyte residues and replacing the capacitor, you must check it without connecting it to a laptop. Measure the output voltage at the output plug. If everything is in order, then we assemble the power adapter.
I must say that this is a very time consuming business. First.
The PSU cooling heatsink consists of multiple aluminum fins. Between themselves, they are fastened with latches, and are also glued with something resembling a silicone sealant. It can be removed with a knife.
The upper radiator cover is fastened to the main part with latches.
The bottom plate of the heatsink is fixed to the PCB by soldering, usually in one or two places. A plastic insulating plate is placed between it and the PCB.
A few words about how to fasten the two halves of the body, which at the very beginning we sawed with a jigsaw.
In the simplest case, you can simply assemble the power supply and wrap the halves of the case with electrical tape. But this is not the best option.
I used hot melt glue to glue the two plastic halves together. Since I don’t have a thermal gun, I cut off pieces of hot melt glue from the tube with a knife and put them in the grooves. After that, I took a hot air soldering station, set about 200 degrees
250 0 C. Then he heated pieces of hot melt glue with a hair dryer until they melted. I removed the excess glue with a toothpick and once again blew it with a hairdryer on the soldering station.
It is advisable not to overheat the plastic and generally avoid excessive heating of foreign parts. For me, for example, the plastic of the case began to brighten with strong heating.
Despite this, it turned out very soundly.
Now I will say a few words about other malfunctions.
In addition to such simple breakdowns as a slammed capacitor or an open in the connecting wires, there are also such as an open choke output in the line filter circuit. Here is a photo.
It would seem that the matter is trifling, I rewound the coil and sealed it into place. But it takes a lot of time to find such a malfunction. It is not possible to detect it immediately.
Surely you have already noticed that large-sized elements, like the same electrolytic capacitor, filter chokes and some other parts, are smeared with something like a white sealant. It would seem, why is it needed? And now it is clear that with its help large parts are fixed, which can fall off from shaking and vibrations, like this very choke, which is shown in the photo.
By the way, initially it was not securely fixed. I chatted. chatted, and fell off, taking the life of another power supply from the laptop.
I suspect that thousands of compact and rather powerful power supplies are sent to the landfill from such banal breakdowns.!
For a radio amateur, such a pulsed power supply with an output voltage of 19.20 volts and a load current of 3-4 amperes is just a godsend! Not only is it very compact, it is also quite powerful. Typically, the wattage of power adapters is 40
Unfortunately, in case of more serious malfunctions, such as failure of electronic components on a printed circuit board, repair is complicated by the fact that it is quite difficult to find a replacement for the same PWM controller microcircuit.
It is not even possible to find a datasheet for a specific microcircuit. Among other things, the repair is complicated by the abundance of SMD components, the marking of which is either difficult to read or it is impossible to purchase a replacement for the element.
It should be noted that the overwhelming majority of laptop power adapters are made of very high quality. This can be seen at least by the presence of coil parts and chokes that are installed in the network filter circuit. It suppresses electromagnetic interference. In some low-quality power supplies from stationary PCs, such elements may be absent altogether.