How to open a laptop power adapter. HP 255 G7 EPV51 LA-G076P Rev 3.0 photos…

Repair BP for the Dell Inspiron 13 laptop. Little hack ⁠ ⁠

On the eve of my working laptop Dell Inspiron 13, I decided that he did not want to work anymore, since he did not have food. When rebooting, I began to issue the error “The AC Power Adapter Wattage and Type Cannot Be Determined”. A runaway search on the Internet and pouring a multimeter into the wire showed the lack of contact between the central pine of the connector on the laptop.

DELL, as decent proprietary workers, has long been embedded in the signaling “system” into the power supply unit. This system gives birth to a “signal”, having received which, the laptop understands whether native PSU or not. If not (read no signal), then the laptop works, but at the same time it is terribly stupid and does not charge the battery.

You will find a new tail for BP first, and then you also need to wait. Therefore, it was decided to split the BP and look. over, there was another block with the same malfunction with a colleague, well, just in case 🙂

Further pictures with explanations of what and how to do, in order to achieve the necessary result.

We open at the seam to the poddodov with something flat and wide. There is little glue there, so it is opened quite simply.

Inside, such a shielding case. Everything is stuck on the sealant.

Remove the sealant, remove one half of the lumener case, weave the second half in two places. We are interested in the side that the power output to the laptop (in the next photo. On the right, under the plaque of sealant, a photo from the second BP, since at the first I first cleaned the sealant, and then remembered that I needed to take a picture).

Remove the sealant. Gently, with a toothpick.

What is marked with circles. Just the whole “signal system” is. Clockwise on the right. The ration of the blue signal wire going to the laptop, a resistor of 130om, the zener diode, and the three.legged shnyag with the label of the BYC1 (never found that it is), the place of soldering of the black wire going to the laptop. Previously, Dell put some one.wire mikruch from Max. I think something like that too.

And now Fintt with the ears, so that everything would work, we need this “system” from the PSU, transfer to the laptop 🙂

We blow off the details from the BP and solder on a pre.marked strip of thin textolite.

External frame. Textile. dotted line. The foil rupture site.

Next, dismantle the power connector from the laptop. To do this, remove the back cover, unscrew the loop, remove both connectors from the motherboard near the loop, disconnect the power connector from the motherboard, unscrew the screw that holds the connector.

Further. We cut any black wiring in half and solder one end of our board there (h on the scheme). We cut the only white wire, and at the end of which goes into the connector on the fee, we solder the second wire from our board (C on the scheme).

Voila. the laptop no longer swears at the PSU and charges the battery.

We ennoble the shortening of the wires and thermal activity.

We mount the connector to the place, hiding our scarf under the motherboard.

We collect the laptop how they disassembled. If there are extra screws, we disassemble, look where we forgot, screw it up, collect. We connect, use.

Disclaimer: I am not a professional repairman, so I indulge. If you repeat. then everything is at your own peril and risk 🙂 Do not forget, in BP 220V! All manipulations only with the BP network. Yes, I forgot to say, after such an alteration, you should not poke out power supplies with other characteristics into the laptop! This can end deplorable!

My laptop, my BP, soldered with an ax and spruce resin directly from the stump, took off to the slippers.

But whether the path of use of original PSUs is closed, two microcircuits at the same time in a fishing line for a trimmer will talk

Когда у нас даже пенсионеры делают эмулятор чипа даллас травят мини платку купоросом и продают на площадках типа олх. Когда любой интернет магазин для сервисников (не те что продают клавиатуры и матрицы ) продают заводские эмуляторы зарядных кабелей для ЛБП притом даже выбираешь мощность чтоб он сьемулировал другие значения в регистре и отобразился правильно в биосе ноутбука и при самодиагностике делл. You have lifhaki tundra lemmings and bears with a balalaika.

Something seems to me, that “three-legged shnyag” marked on the U52 board, you are in vain hooked, it has nothing to do with the circuit for checking the power supply unit. Two legs to a mass of three.- it’s cool. And in the photo, if we look, the fishing line for the trimmer to this transistor goes under the zid ZD51 ZD51, by the scheme.

Firmware Xerox B215⁠ ⁠

Hello. The other day I thought to write about the repair of kiers, but the firmware interrupted me and I decided to write about it, a rather interesting topic and very relevant.

This post brings an introductory character and the author (that is, I) is not responsible for broken printers) “you do not know how to. Do not take “!

Xerox B215 came to us with the problem of constant rebooting.

He could not get ready, although the engine spun a couple of times. Inside, I found a cartridge with a glued tape with a chip and my inner voice told me, they tried to sew it)

Guided by the method of great scientific poke, I decided to flash nand, because it is logical.

The side cover holds on latches, there are no screws. I designated the approximate location of the latches.

There is also a couple from below, but usually by this moment the cover itself is already opening. And yes, I have already tore the tape from the cartridge chip, because I tried to flash the original firmware through USB (not helped).

Next, disconnect all the loops, connectors from the board. And unscrew it.

On the reverse side of the board is the coveted Nand microcircuit, which I did not take a picture safely, so keep photos from the Internet)

We solder this mikrukh, clean the legs and carefully insert into the programmer, since we have acquired it to the whole whistle with the special operation.

If it has not decided, then examine the legs under the microscope, if you need to clean, and insert it again. If determined, then read the data from the mikrukhi and save it just in case.

The firmware is light, most often consists of three steps:

When it all ended well, we solder the mikrukh back to the fee, the dental probe under the microscope check the boot of all the paws of the microcircuit and actually install it all the miracle back in the All-in-One Printer.

After installing the board and firmware firmware, the printer and a miracle launched the firmware, and finally showed us the menu.

And thanks to my habit, to check and clean the cartridges to customers as a bonus, which did not fall asleep the printer, I identified one important problem.

This client in the toner cartridge twisted the metering blade and judging by the rusty rubber shaft for quite some time.

So the cartridge, or he will have to change the blade (he is in thought).

Well, I cleaned the dram of the cartridge from working out.

All-in-One Printer has become efficient and now stitched, that is, untied from the chips.

Thank you all for reading this extravagant article, from crazy me).

Dismantling the power supply

Especially for readers, I shot a video of the disassembly process. This video is suitable for any glued laptop power supply, monitor, printer or other equipment. The main principle is to insert a sharp instrument into the power of the power supply and confidently blows it into two halves.

This should look like a power supply after opening.

Having taken out the fee, I saw a characteristic darkening of the textolite, which indicates the overheating of the elements on the board.

Microsemen on the board

As a result of low.quality soldering at the factory. microcracks were formed in the solders. Because of this, the resistance of the “resistor-road” contact increased and it began to bask more intensively, from which the microcracks had gone, because the mechanical strength of the solder, as you know, decreases with an increase in temperature increase. The first microcrack under the resistor.

Second microcrack in the solder.

The third crack was detected already when staggering a resistor, the leg of which is soldered to the paths of the board in this place.

Top resistors are flooded with some rubber foam. Possible, it worsens heat transfer between the elements inside the power of the power supply.

Charger for battery from BP laptop

Hi all! I want to share with you my charger for the battery, which I made from the laptop power supply (19V and 3.16A). I got this charger universal, t.to. I made it adjustable in voltage from 4B to 18.5V. The whole alteration took me a few days in the evenings after work. Of the minuses, such charging is designed only for low current, when testing on a discharged battery 60AH, the current was only 3.72 and, which is not entirely enough, but the battery was fully charged during the night, I checked the electrolyte.

Open the power of the power supply, using a solvent and syringe. We fill the junction of the junction, wait a bit, remove the excess spilled solvent.

We take out a fee, we are looking for a PWM controller (I have a das001 chip on the right) to it one track from the plus contact, we track this track and find the first resistor that connects this track and one of the contacts of this controller. In my case, I was looking for it by exclusion. The first resistor that met on the way to the controller was not true. As I checked: I fell out, measured the resistance, in its place the alternating resistor soldered in its place, putting it on the same resistance, included the power supply unit connected to the network, and slightly changed the resistance. But nothing has changed. So it turned out that this resistor is not the same. I sold it back and went on the path, and then one resistor met, he approached the second leg of the controller. I did the same with him and Voila turned out to be it. So I found the desired resistor. I read somewhere on the forum that there is a resistor who is responsible for changing the current strength, but in this power supply, I could not find it. Well, I do not see much sense in adjustment by current, t.to. current and so small.

Checked on a car light bulb. A powerful lamp from the headlight is not suitable, the maximum power of such a bulb should be no more than the power of your block, in my case it is 3.1612 = 36W

I made a hole under the resistor and under the scoreboard, glued it on a thermic mushroom, the case was wrapped with electrical tape, connected the wires with the clemks

The price of ampereltmeter 2 is.e. I ordered or 4u at Aliexpre.e. By advertising, the resistor fell out of the old fee, 1U clamps.e. Total price of the charger cost me 5u.e. and several days of working with soldering iron

How to disassemble a laptop power supply

Over time, any equipment can become unusable. The laptop power supply is no exception. with intensive work, not the highest quality option is able to fail in just a few months. Fortunately, the element can often be fixed on your own (if there are basic knowledge), but for this you have to disassemble the device. In this article, we will consider how to make out a laptop power supply without damaging the equipment.

Laptops, unlike stationary computers, are equipped with relatively small elements of energy supply.

Web programming specialist and computer systems. PHP/HTML/CSS editor OS-Shelper.ru.

Among the most frequent causes of breakdowns, only the shaking of the nest and cable damage can be distinguished, since the block itself is quite simple.

• The device itself or sample for training.
• Knife or special scalpel to carefully open the body.
• Napkins or scarf.
• Glue and syringe.
• Set of boot, soldering iron and solder.

Opening the body

First you need to open the glued body of the power supply. The sequence of actions is as follows:

• Using a knife, a scalpel or thin screwdriver, we press on the case at the junction of two parts of its, try to put plastic and open the case by force.
• Having caught up, we draw a fishing line for a trimmer along the edge for the final autopsy. Sometimes the adapter is equipped with an additional strap. it will disconnect automatically.
• Check if the battery located inside the case is damaged.
• We extract a fee. It is not attached, so there will be no difficulties. It is only important not to damage the equipment.

The block is disassembled, you can proceed to identify problems.

Parsing and checking the board

Further work will be carried out with the board. The next set of actions must be performed:

• We turn the board to the side and bend 2 metal holders. Holders are made of thin soft metal, so you will not have to apply much effort.
• Carefully bend the widest part of the board, while holding the fixers.
• To remove the entire shell and complete release of the board, you need to use the soldering iron. Access to the board and contacts of the cable can be obtained without a soldering iron. simply arched the lower shell.

Attention! It will still have to remove the entire lower part if the problem is in damage to the cord.

Now you need to inspect the fee. Two possible faults are given in the list below:

• Damaged resistors. This can be determined by the basis that the cable and all other elements are working, but the block does not perform tasks assigned to it. You can fix the problem only if you have knowledge.
• The wire is damaged. If obvious damage is visible on the cord, it must be replaced with a soldering iron and solder.

It is recommended to check the performance of the device using a multimeter. This must be done before the block is assembled back.

Attention! Darkening or areas on which the fee is yellow does not talk about damage. such changes are caused by the exposure of the temperature.

Gluing

After identifying and eliminating the problem, you need to glue the body back. You will have to glue because special mounts are rarely present on laptop blocks. The sequence of actions is as follows:

• Return protective metal holders to place.
• Set a fee and thread the wires in the connectors allotted for them.
• Close the case until clicks appear.
• With the help of glue, glue the case along the line of the two parts of its.

If the block was equipped with a strap, then it must be installed in place.

Inner block

Enuptance to a power supply, integrated into the laptop body, is somewhat more complicated than to the external element.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

• We analyze the laptop to gain access to the motherboard.
• Disconnect the appropriate loop of the power adapter from the board, as well as all additional ones (there can be 2-3 more, they are less than the main one).
• Using a screwdriver, remove the screws that attach the connector to the body.
• We extract a fee, trying not to damage it. If necessary, unscrew the connectors that interfere with the work.

Attention! When performing work with the connector, you need to be particularly careful, since incorrect actions can lead to a laptop breakdown.

How to open the internal power supply of the laptop

Gain access to the internal feed adapter is much more difficult than to external. The reason lies in the need to open the laptop body.

Removing the lower panel

All well.known laptop models understand approximately the same, that is, they have an identical internal device and units that require dismantling.

Important. It is worth remembering that independent removal of the lower panel of the device deprives the user of the right to warranty service, that is, if the laptop is still under warranty, it is better to give it to the service center for repairs.

The main volume of work is reduced to unscrewing a large number of fasteners. In order not to confuse and not lose the screws, it is better to prepare a container with several compartments in advance.

Important. Before disassembling the laptop, it is necessary to turn off the battery. If this is not done, then there is a risk of short circuit, which will inevitably lead to expensive repairs.

When performing work, the following sequence of actions must be observed:

• dismantling a protective plate with RAM and a hard disk;
• dismantling the hard disk, otherwise it can interfere with further work;
• RAM can not be dismantled, but you will have to get rid of the drive by unscrewing only 1 screw;
• Next, all the remaining screws are unscrewed. It is necessary to get rid of all fasteners, otherwise the risk of breakdown of the plastic elements of the case is great;
• Without unnecessary problems, the keyboard is dismantled. on the side facing the screen, there is a special elongating fasteners, which is clung to a conventional screwdriver;
• To completely dismantle the keyboard from the body, it is necessary to disconnect the train;
• Following the keyboard, all the remaining loops are disconnected;
• cutting the upper and lower lid;
• To dismantle the motherboard, all loops are disconnected and screws are unscrewed;
• On the inside of the housing, there can be cables of power. they are also disconnected.

Turning off, diagnostics

To dismantle the power connector of the power supply from the “motherboard”, you must perform:

• Up the screwdriver unscrew the screws of mounting the connector to the body. For some models, it will initially be easier to dismantle the “neighboring” elements, and then turn off the loops;
• outwardly and in size of the board may vary depending on the model;
• It is worth being careful, since one of the screws of fixation can be common with the screen;
• dismantling the connector;
• Dismantling of the latch.

Important. With independent diagnosis and desire to repair the connector, you should be careful. When it is damaged, there is a high probability of problems with the work of the entire laptop.

The main reasons for the malfunction of the internal power supply are the surge of the voltage in the network and the careless connection of external devices. Independent repair can lead to more serious consequences.

How to disassemble external charging laptop

For an external adapter, the main difficulty of analysis is the lack of fasteners. The reason is that, according to the manufacturer, the device is not subject to repair at home and therefore it is sealed from the inside.

Opening of the case and extracting the board

You can open the body of an external adapter through a screwdriver, knife or other sharp object. A number of craftsmen before opening neatly through the syringe spill a seam with gasoline, which allegedly dissolves plastic and simplifies the opening of the case.

With a slight blows of the palm on the handle of the screwdriver inserted into the groove, you can open the adapter. On some power supplies there is a special “strap” located on the long side of the block. it will independently disconnect after opening the body.

After separation of the case into 2 parts, it will not be difficult to detect the battery. It should be examined for the presence of mechanical damage. If they are not detected, then it is worth moving on to the board that is neatly extracted from the body.

We take out and disassemble the fee

The board from the case is removed neatly, it is not attached to the case, so it is better to try to save it in its original form. Now it is worthwhile to search for a malfunction.

Inspection of fees and stocking

After an external inspection of the board and in the absence of visible damage, it is necessary to measure the voltage at the output of the board. In accordance with the output voltage, it will be necessary to remove the case from the metal, falling from the board. The plug limiter is carefully cut, excessive elements of the wires are cut. Entire parts of the wire are soldered to the connector,

The body of the feeder is planted on glue. it is again working. With careful disassembly, the case will not be damaged.

It is important for repairing more serious malfunctions of the laptop power supply that a number of professional devices, such as an oscilloscope, tester, etc. D. Therefore, it is better to entrust serious repair work to professionals who have the necessary equipment in their Arsenal.

How to disassemble a power supply from the ASUS laptop

Many of us have encountered a problem such as the lack of a charging process on a laptop. This can be caused by different factors. Firstly, a broken nest on the device itself can lead to this, secondly, interruptions in the cable that goes to the power supply, thirdly, a fracture of the cord at the junction with the power supply unit. In this article, we will touch the third most common case-the broken wires, thus, having kept you from the next trip to the service or unjustified purchase of a new power supply due to such a trifle.

Attention. To replace the cord, you first need to disassemble the block itself, as a rule, they go indiscriminately. If you do not have time, desire or dexterity in such procedures, it is better to contact specialists for whom ASUS laptop repair is a fairly easy and quick process.

So, to open the power supply, we will need:

• Knife (or something similar, with thin, but not sharp enough, blade, so as not to damage the block itself);
• A hammer;
• A napkin (everything that can be put under a block, whether even a newspaper or a sheet of paper);
• Superwood and syringe;
• First you need to put the power supply on any side on a napkin/rag, so as not to scratch the surface on which we will work.
• Then you need to insert a knife into the groove that divides the block in half, not on the very edge, but a little further from the edge, because you can damage or break the angle.
• Gently beat the knife with a hammer, not so much to break the block (we need to disassemble, otherwise you could do everything in one point. with a hammer), but not so weak, because we need to ensure that the knife slightly bent the side of the power supply, after In this place he will disperse.
• We do the same, first on the other wide side and then on the remaining two narrow. If the block does not completely open, then we repeat the same action. In this way, we open it, which was necessary.
• To replace the wire, you must first peel off the diagrams from one of the halves of the block, gently picing the knife to which they can be glued, then to remove the aluminum wrapper with the diagram, it can be glued with adhesive tape.
• Next, you need to solder two wires of the old cord with the schemes and solder new ones in the same order from a working wire.
• We collect the power supply in the reverse order, first apply glue to one of the grooves on the plastic body of the power supply using a syringe or a long glue nose.

Thus, we independently dismantled and collected a power supply from a laptop, using only improvised means. over, they completely did without someone’s help. We hope this article will be useful.

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Alteration of the BP from the laptop to the adjustable

Power Supply. This device, which serves to convert (decrease or increase) alternating network voltage into a given constant voltage. Power blocks are divided into: transformer and impulse. Only transformer power supply designs were created. They consisted of a power transformer powered by a 220V, 50Hz and a rectifier with a filter, voltage stabilizer. Thanks to the transformer, the network voltage is reduced to the required values, followed by straightening the voltage by a rectifier consisting of diodes included in the bridge circuit. After straightening, the constant pulsating voltage is smoothed in parallel with a connected capacitor. If necessary, accurate stabilization of the voltage level, voltage stabilizers on transistors are used.

The main drawback of the transformer power supply. This is a transformer. Why is that? All due to weight and dimensions, as they limit the compactness of the power supply, while their price is quite high. But these power supplies are simple in design and this is their advantage. But all the same in most modern devices, the use of transformer power supplies has not become relevant. They were replaced by impulse power supply units.

The composition of the pulsed power supply includes:

1) a network filter, (input throttle, an electromechanical filter that provides removal from interference, network fuse);

2) rectifier and smoothing filter (diode bridge, accumulative capacitor);

5) the output rectifier (rectifier diodes included according to the semi.moisture scheme);

6) output filter (filter capacitors, power throttle);

7) an inverter control unit (shim controller with a strapping)

The pulse power supply provides a stabilized voltage through the use of feedback. It works as follows. The network voltage enters the rectifier and the smoothing filter, where the voltage of the network is straightened, and the pulsation is smoothed through the use of capacitors. At the same time, an amplitude of about 300 volts is maintained. In the next stage, the inverter is connected. His task. Formation of rectangular high.frequency signals for the transformer. Inverter feedback is carried out through the control unit. From the release of the transformer, high.frequency pulses enter the output rectifier. Due to the fact that the frequency of impulses is about 100 kHz, the use of high-speed semiconductor diodes of the shank is necessary. On the finished phase, voltage is smoothed out on the filter condenser and throttle. And only after this, the voltage of a given value is supplied to the load. Everything, enough theory, let’s move on to practice and start making a power supply.

Each radio amateur who is engaged in radio electronics, wanting to arrange his devices often encounters a problem where to get the case. This problem suffered from me, which in turn prompted the idea, why not make the case with your own hands. And then my searches began. Search for a ready.made solution how to make a corps did not lead to anything. But I didn’t despair. Thinking for a while, I had an idea, why not make a case from a plastic box for laying wires. In terms of dimensions, he suited me, and I began to cut and glue. We look at the drawings below.

The dimensions of the box were selected based on the size of the power supply board. We look at the picture below.

Also in the housing should also fit an indicator, wires, regulator and network connector. We look at the picture below.

To install the above elements in the housing, the necessary holes were cut out. We look at the drawings above. And finally, to give the body of the aesthetics power supply, it was black. We look at the drawings below.

I will say right away that I did not have to look for a measuring device for a long time, the choice immediately fell on a combined digital voltameter TK1382. We look at the drawings below.

The dimensions of the instruments are for a voltage of 0-100 V and current up to 10 A. Two calibration resistors for voltage and current adjustment are also installed on the device. We look at the picture below.

As for the connection scheme, it has nuances. We look at the drawings below.

To measure current and voltage, we use the circuit. 2, see the picture above. And so in order. For the I have a power supply from my laptop, we first find a circuit of a circuit of a circuitry circuit. Search must be carried out according to the PWM controller. In this power supply is CR6842S. We look at the scheme below.

Now let’s touch on the alteration. Since the adjustable power supply will be made, the circuit will have to be redone. To do this, we make changes to the scheme, these areas are circled in orange. We look at the picture below.

The section of the scheme 1.2 provides power controller for PWM. And is a parametric stabilizer. The voltage of the stabilizer 17.1 V was selected in connection with the features of the work of the CHIM controller. At the same time, to power the PWM controller, we set the current through the stabilizer about 6 mA. “The peculiarity of this controller is that for its inclusion, the supply voltage is necessary more than 16.4 V, the consumption current of 4 mA” Excerpt from Datasheet. With such an alteration of the power supply, it is necessary to abandon the winding of self.installation, since its use is not advisable at low voltages at the output. In the figure below, you can see this node after alteration.

Repair of laptop power supply

The ordinary laptop power supply is a very compact and rather powerful pulse power supply unit.

In the event of its malfunction, many simply throw it away, and they buy a universal BP for laptops for replacement, the cost of which starts from 1000 but in most cases to fix such a block with your own hands.

We will talk about repairing the power supply from the ASUS laptop. He is AC/DC power adapter. Model ADP-90CD. Output voltage 19V, maximum load current 4.74A.

The power supply itself worked, which was clear by the presence of an indication of a green LED. The voltage on the output plug corresponded to what is indicated on the label. 19V.

There was no cliff in the connecting wires or breakdown of the plug. But when the power supply unit is connected to the battery, the battery did not start, and the green indicator on its case went out and glowed at half the original brightness.

It was also heard that the block was squealing. It became clear that the impulse power supply is trying to start, but for some reason there is either an overload, or a protection against a short circuit is triggered.

A few words about how to open the body of such a power supply. It is no secret that it is made sealed, and the design itself does not imply disassembly. For this we need several tools.

We take a hand jigsaw or canvas from it. The canvas is better to take metal with a small tooth. The power supply itself is best squeezed in a vice. If they are not, then you can contrive and do without them.

Next, we make a hand-made jigsaw a drink deep into the housing by 2-3 mm. In the middle of the case along the connecting seam. Sprinkled should be done carefully. If you overdo it, you can damage the printed circuit board or electronic filling.

Then we take a flat screwdriver with a wide edge, insert it into a cut and break the halves of the case. No need to rush. When separating the halves of the case, a characteristic click should occur.

After the power of the power supply is opened, remove the plastic dust with a brush or brush, take out electronic filling.

To inspect the elements on the printed circuit board, you need to remove the aluminum bar radiator. In my case, the bar was attached to other parts of the radiator on latches, and was also glued to the transformer with a kind of silicone sealant. I managed to separate the bar from the transformer with an acute blade of the penknife.

The photo shows the electronic filling of our block.

I did not have to look for a malfunction for a long time. Even before the opening of the case, I made trial inclusions. After a pair of connections to the 220V network inside the unit, something crackled and the green indicator signaling about the work, completely went out.

When examining the case, a liquid electrolyte was detected, which leaked into the gap between the network connector and the elements of the case. It became clear that the power supply stopped operating normally due to the fact that the electrolytic capacitor 120 μF 420v “slapped” due to exceeding the operating voltage in the power supply 220v. Pretty ordinary and widespread malfunction.

When the capacitor is dismantled, its outer shell scattered. Apparently lost her properties due to prolonged heating.

Protective valve in the upper part of the case “Voined”. This is a sure sign of a faulty capacitor.

Here’s another example with a faulty capacitor. This is a different power adapter from the laptop. Pay attention to the protective notch in the upper part of the capacitor housing. She opened from the pressure of boiled electrolyte.

In most cases, it is quite easy to return the power supply to life. First you need to replace the main culprit of the breakdown.

At that time, I had two suitable capacitors at hand. I decided not to install the Samwha capacitor to 82 μF 450v, although it was perfect in size.

The fact is that its maximum operating temperature is 85 ° C. It is indicated on his case. And if we take into account that the power supply body is compact and is not ventilated, then the temperature inside it can be very high.

Prolonged heating is very poorly affected by the reliability of electrolytic capacitors. Therefore, I installed a Jamicon capacitor with a capacity of 68 μF 450V, which is designed for operating temperatures up to 105 ° C.

It is worth considering that the capacity of the native capacitor is 120 μF, and the operating voltage 420V. But I had to put a capacitor with a smaller capacity.

In the process of repairing power blocks from laptops, I faced the fact that it is very difficult to find a replacement to the capacitor. And the matter is not at all in capacity or working stress, but its dimensions.

Find a suitable capacitor that would be cleaned into a cramped case, turned out to be a difficult task. Therefore, it was decided to establish a product suitable in size, albeit smaller capacity. The main thing is that the capacitor itself is new, high.quality and with an operating voltage of at least 420 ~ 450V. As it turned out, even with such capacitors, power supply units work properly.

When sealing a new electrolytic capacitor, it is necessary to strictly observe the polarity of connecting the conclusions! As a rule, the sign near the hole indicates the sign “” or “-“. In addition, the minus can be marked with a black greasy line or a mark in the form of a stain.

Repair of the power supply unit from the Acer laptop

Good day to everyone =)) I will share the method of repairing the power supply / charging unit from the Acer laptop.

Other charging laptops are similar, so I think the general points are the same In my case, the repair is trifling, just and just broke the wiring from the power supply to the laptop, here in this place: in this place:

But you never know who will come in handy =))) But nevertheless, the question arises of how to disassemble it After all, it is not collapsible, and the case is glued. But here everything is quite simple, just take a knife or some other similar item, put it in a groove and knock something on top, for example, pliers in my case:

It is easily “halted”, then we see the following picture:

Well, then everything is quite simple =) you need to clean the wires and put the figurine that is higher back to the wire:

And solder the wires to the board on the power supply, here in this place:

Almost all of it, it remains only to collect it, I did not bother with glue or something else, but simply wrapped it with black isolet in two places, I think that it is normal =)

We connect to PC and check =)) everything works:

That’s all =))) PS: people! Who is in the subject, you can suggest, at least in general, why the hard drives are constantly dying in the laptop? About 2. 2.For 5 years, I’ve been putting the third hard drive I certainly understand that you need to watch but still.Peace for everyone!

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Repair of a power supply unit. loudly said. than the repair of the wire I would not put you. 🙂

Here you have infa why hard drives die habrahabr.ru/post/137211/Small prevention and they will work for a very long time. The programmed aging is gaining momentum every day, unfortunately, you can’t lose vigilance if you want to maintain the budget.

And I sawed the corner with a hacksaw, and then with a flat screwdriver of a powerful turning and diverge over the seam.

I sawed a hacksaw and norms))) a motom also on the island)))

The screws in the laptop in 90 percent of cases die from a sharp change in laptop orientation. The wheels in the screw are spinning at a frantic speed and, with a sharp turn from a horizontal position, to a vertical disk begins to vibrate like butterfly wings by touching the head. After that or the heads of the khan or disks, but one result, the Khan screw.

The most interesting thing is that these PSUs do not survive if they put them in the IPB with the meander at the exit. I burned a power supply from the Dell laptop so. over, two))) At work, he included the IPB without looking and cut down the light later (something happened on the TP). Well, PSU and die, does not turn on. Without hesitation, I take the second in the warehouse and stick it there I bought the third at my own expense, but I remembered that you can’t do this)))) And I also dismantled the first BP. it is flat, all flooded and in the gaskets of isolating, its repair is still hemorrhoids abandoned in the pantry)))

))) In the outlet, the voltage changes along the sinusoid with a frequency of 50 Hz. And cheap uninterrupted intakes generate a square voltage of such _p_p_p_. this is a meander. Or at best the form of saw, triangles are such. Dear IPB synthesize the perfect sinusoid.

Well, I understand approximately =)) and the perfect sinusoid how it should look? =))

The most interesting thing is that these PSUs do not survive if they put them in the IPB with the meander at the exit. I burned a power supply from the Dell laptop so. over, two))) At work, he included the IPB without looking and cut down the light later (something happened on the TP). Well, PSU and die, does not turn on. Without hesitation, I take the second in the warehouse and stick it there I bought the third at my own expense, but I remembered that you can’t do this)))) And I also dismantled the first BP. it is flat, all flooded and in the gaskets of isolating, its repair is still hemorrhoids abandoned in the pantry)))

Thank you, I’ll check. Although the input is high.voltage and from the first push? There are ballast resistors at the entrance. there is a restriction on the charging current, and not to kill, as it were, an input with such an current the first time. I was looking for fuses at the entrance. but in that mass the frozen compound cannot be found right away, so I threw it))))

My power supply also looks like it is also rewinded with island)))

Well, yes, I myself put it on this repair)) I just worked at this time in Sudan, on the basis of the repair of aviation equipment. And then this wire began to get me with its antics, that is, contact, then there is no. He split the corps and went to the guys to the Aoshniki (specialists for aviation equipment) behind the soldering iron. I cut it, it shook it with island, in general everything is like yours))

Samsung, Hitachi, for 2 years 3 screws, were changed under warranty. I bought a Western Dijtal screw for my money for the fourth time, everything works without problems for 3 years)

I was also changed once under the warranty, then 2 times already at my own expense, since the guarantee ended = (in all cases, WD screws

The quality of the disks has fallen. worked in the service, changed them under warranty.Buy in a laptop SSD.

Yes, I’m already thinking =)) Thank you for the advice =)

Better leave the screw with a screw, and instead of the drive DO, buy an adapter on SSD, then the SSD system and a screw for file storage, only all archiving, indexation, etc. For the system on the SSD, do not forget to cut down.

aa, there’s how it is still possible =)) thanks for the tip =))) SSD itself how to fix it at the drive site?

SD drives in laptops 2 species are more than 2 sizes, one in one in their size there are special adapters in which SSD or any other disk is screwed, and even the side wall from the laptop from the drive diabetes is removed and attached to these adapters there everything is standard. Something looks like this.Tomas.by/p/430460- ATA-HDD-SSD-DISK-12-7-MM/

For the system minimal how much space is needed? VIN 7

well, depending on what you are on PC)) I would take SSD at 128GB

On the laptop is nothing more 🙂 Internet, but see films 🙂 In principle, 128 GB is the most optimal option 🙂