How To Disassemble Ipad 2

Replacing broken glass on a second iPad

Our gadgets are always at hand, so they become involuntary hostages of the daily hustle and bustle. Unfortunately, situations often arise in which we are not in control of the situation, and our favorite device ends up on the floor. The sensor most often suffers from falls, as it is made of fragile materials.

If your iPad 2 has suffered such a fate, we recommend that you read the repair instructions. In this article, you will learn how to replace damaged glass at home.

Removing the old coating

If a certain area of ​​the surface has a large number of cracks, it is better to seal it with tape. When the damaged glass is dismantled, all debris will remain on the adhesive side of the tape. This way you protect the display from scratches. You need to pry the glass as carefully as possible so as not to damage the plastic frame located under it. Do the work gradually: each area is preheated with a hairdryer, and only then a spatula is started under the glass.

How To Disassemble Ipad 2

If possible, run it around the entire perimeter of the outer panel. Please note that the glass is fixed very securely, and if the pushed area is released, then thanks to the heated glue it will immediately stick tightly. That is why it is recommended to put plastic scalpels in lagging places.

Don’t be reassured that the surface is removed in no time. Most often, damaged glass must be taken apart piece by piece. Because of this, the replacement process can take several hours. You need to be ready for such a situation.
Before disassembling an iPad, you need to know a few nuances:

  • First of all, the antenna is located to the right of the home button under the sensor. Therefore, when removing the glass, you need to take care that this element remains on the device panel itself.
  • Secondly, at the bottom of the left side of the iPad 2 is the touchscreen cable. When the entire surface is peeled off, you need to bend the glass to the left as if you were turning a page. This will allow you not to break contacts when replacing.
  • Thirdly, after removing the glass, do not forget to clean the panel from small fragments. Also, if there is no “HOME” button on the new glass, it must be removed from the old touchscreen.

Removing the display

To finally get rid of the damaged glass, and install a new one in its place, you need:

  • Unscrew the four screws securing the screen module;
  • Then lift the display with a metal spatula and move it slightly to the right;
  • At the bottom under its left side there is a train. Its latch must be snapped off, and the mount must be disconnected (number 1 in the figure below). We remove the screen to the side;
  • After that you need to disconnect the sensor mounts from the board (number 2).

The glass is now completely dismantled. If in parallel it is necessary to replace other parts of the iPad (s), we recommend that you look at it, which shows how to completely disassemble the device.

Preparing the necessary tools

To replace the external element as quickly as possible, the following devices must be used:

  • Technical hair dryer for heating the touchscreen from the front side;
  • Plastic spatulas for prying the surface and removing glue;
  • Plastic scalpels that are inserted around the perimeter of the glass and prevent it from re-sticking;
  • Tweezers, with which it is easy to disconnect the cables and remove small items;
  • Curly screwdriver with a magnetized tip for loosening the fastening screws.

When replacing the touchscreen at home, a household hairdryer can be used as a heating element, but this choice is not always justified. The fact is that the diameter of its tube is much larger, and this increases the heating time of a particular area. Since not all glass is glued in the iPad 2, but only its panel around the perimeter, you only need to influence the temperature on it.

Sticking

Putting iPad 2 together in reverse order:

  • Immediately connect the loop of the new sensor and display module;
  • We fasten the screen and wipe it, if necessary, with a microfiber cloth;
  • Remove protective stickers from the back of the new glass, as well as from its side parts;
  • Lean the surface against the body and press it along the entire perimeter.

Finally, turn on the iPad and check the operation of the new sensor. Now you know how to replace damaged glass. To make it easier to digest what you have read, we recommend that you look through.

Do not forget to read the comments, there is also a lot of useful information. If there is no answer to your question, and there is an answer to later comments, then the answer to your question is contained in the article, respect someone else’s time.

How to disassemble iPad Air 2 completely and tablet review

What is lighter than air? Air 2, of course. In today’s walkthrough, we’ll show you how to disassemble an iPad Air 2 and find out if Apple’s thinnest device is still less repairable than any other Apple product.

Instruments

In order to disassemble the iPad Air 2 or replace any element in it, you will need:

  1. Iopener set
  2. Set of 6 iFixit Openers
  3. Tweezers
  4. Dielectric blade
  5. Plastic spatula

Step 1

The thinnest Apple tablet at the moment contains a variety of equipment:

  • Fully laminated 9.7-inch LCD with a maximum resolution of 2,048 by 1,536 pixels, 264 ppi, and anti-glare.
  • 64-bit A8X processor (rumored to consist of three 1.5 GHz cores) with two gigabytes of RAM and an M8 motion coprocessor.
  • 8MP rear iSight camera capable of recording 1080p @ 30fps or 720p @ 120fps 1.2MP front camera @ 720p.
  • Fingerprint Scanner Touch ID Barometer Dual Microphones 3-Axis Gyroscope Accelerometer Ambient Light Sensor.
  • Dual MIMO Wi-Fi Antenna 802.11ac Bluetooth 4.0.
  • 16GB, 64GB or 128GB internal storage.

The presented shows the parsing process. In English, but in the instructions below we will explain everything step by step in Russian.

Step 2

The Touch ID scanner is able to recognize your fingerprint no matter which side you put your finger on. The system reads the data anyway and recognizes you.

Step 3

  • Devices whose thickness is comparable to a pencil are already the last century. This tablet is now slightly thinner than a regular pencil.
  • But seriously speaking, the thickness is 6.1 mm. Is a pretty impressive figure. The iPad Air 2 is not only thinner than the original iPad Air, even the latest iPhones, which in addition have controversial camera positions, cannot match.
  • Closer inspection revealed that the dual microphone is located much closer to the iSight camera, and the lock switch has simply disappeared from the device.
  • Ipad Air 2 is not only thinner but also lighter. But just so much? For about 12 pennies.
Read more:  I Can’T Update iOS 11

Step 4

  • We were really hoping to find external propellers on the Air 2. After all, the iPhone 6 Plus has proven that Apple can make tablet-sized gadgets without glue.
  • Alas, our hopes did not come true. No screws were found in the smooth case.
  • Therefore, we have to resort to the iOpener kit.

Step 5

Next on the agenda: Reminder of the original iPad, careful opening and lots of sweat.

  • The new front panel is slightly stiffer than previous iPad models, making it a little more difficult to remove. Avoid bending the glass as this can damage the display even if you don’t insert tools too deep.
  • However, the glued display remains the only access point to the iPad internals. Therefore, even performing the simplest repairs, you run the risk of damaging the screen every time.

Step 6

  • After successfully opening the iPad Air 2, we immediately notice that the cables going to the display are now near the bottom edge of the device.
  • This is a welcome change considering that in the previous iPad Air, the digitizer and LCD cables served as a trap for the user on both sides of the display.
  • If you’re wondering how deep you can push the openers between the front panel and the body of the device, we have to disappoint you. Air 2 gives no room for error.

Step 7

The cable to the Touch ID scanner is very similar to the one found in the new generation iPhone.

  • When we remove the home screen button, we find that there is only one chip under it:
  • Touch ID NXP Semiconductors 8416A1

Continuing our inspection of the front panel, we find a few more chips:

  • Driver LCD Parade Technologies DP675
  • Texas Instruments TPS65143A LCD Bias Voltage Control Unit

Step 8

  • Now let’s direct our dielectric blades towards the new tiny speakers.
  • Unfortunately, they refuse to talk to us, and external markings leave no room for secrets.
  • Ignoring the awkward silence hanging around, we continue to work.

Step 9

  • Next, we need to remove the FaceTime HD camera, as well as the 8MP iSight camera, next to which is the microphone.
  • Compared to the iPhone 6 Plus’ iSight camera, they are very similar. Nevertheless, it is noticeable that the camera has become much better than its predecessor, which was equipped with the first generation iPad Air.

Step 10

  • The position and design of the headphone jack has remained largely unchanged. But something has changed.
  • It looks like the ambient light sensor of the FaceTime HD camera has been split into two separate sensors. One of them is now in the headphone jack.

Step 11

  • Our Wi-Fi model’s antennas are now on the top of the iPad where they used to be near the bottom of the device.
  • Now we’re wondering where the Air 2 LTE models will hide their antennas.
  • One sweep of the shoulder blades and the antenna leave their comfortable foam cots.

Step 12

  • Then we take out the first two microphones, the second ambient light sensor and the power switch from the iPad Air 2.
  • After the next approach, we have a second microphone and two volume control switches hanging on one cable.

Step 13

  • The following markings were found on the microphones:
  • M1300 5743 M1 334 (on cable to power button)
  • M1300 5723 M1 334 (on the cable with which the volume buttons are connected)
  • It is worth noting that the volume and power buttons can be folded into a beautiful pyramid.

Step 14

  • Unfortunately, the motherboard is secured with glue. Therefore, we once again turn to the help of the iOpener kit.
  • After careful and tedious work, we have a motherboard in our hands.!
  • Removing it, we regret to see that the Lightning connector cable is soldered to the board tightly.
  • It is because of this that removing the motherboard becomes such a difficult task. This also means that you will have to swap out the entire motherboard to replace the Lightning connector.

Step 15

Finally, it was the turn of the main course. A whole plate of chips! Enjoy your meal.

  • 64-bit Apple APL1012 A8X processor
  • Two 1 GB RAM modules. (1GB x 2 = 2GB total) Elpida / Micron Technology F8164A3MD
  • NAND Flash SK Hynix H2JTDG8UD1BMR 128 Gb (16 GB)
  • NFC controller NXP 65V10 (which can also be found in iPhone 6 and 6 Plus)
  • Apple audio codec (Cirrus Logic) 338S1213
  • NXP Semiconductors LPC18B1UK ARM Cortex-M3 microcontroller (Apple M8 motion coprocessor)
  • Wi-Fi module Murata 339S02541

Step 16

A few more chips for those looking for supplements:

  • Maxim Integrated MAX98721BEWV Amplifier
  • Broadcom BCM5976 Digitizer Controller
  • Texas Instruments TI48WHXDP 343S0583
  • Fairchild Semiconductor FDMC 6683 and FDMC 6676BZ (these chips date back to iPad 2)
  • Bosch Sensortec BMP280 Barometer and BMA280 Accelerometer

Step 17

  • Now you can remove the battery that we freed from the embrace of the motherboard.
  • It looks like we’ll need help to get out of this sticky situation. Get out the iOpener.
  • We need a lot of heat and effort to remove the battery from the back cover.
  • It’s not so bad, but I would like to be able to change the battery without the help of plastic cards.
  • The battery of the iPad Air 2 is slightly inferior to the previous version of devices in energy capacity (27.62 W / h vs 32.9 W / h).
  • Apple claims that the tablet can still last 10 hours on a single charge. Apparently the company was able to increase the efficiency of the battery. However, users claim that the Air 2 still discharges a little faster than its predecessor.

Step 18

After we removed all the components from the device case, only the Smart Cover magnets remained in its lifeless shell. Good news, friends! Last year’s Smart Cover magnets are compatible with iPad Air 2. Finally, at least one small exception to Apple’s annual update cycle!

Step 19

The final rating of the iPad Air 2: 2 out of 10 (where 10 is the easiest to fix)

  • The battery is still not soldered to the motherboard.
  • The display and the glass part of the front panel are now integrated. This simplifies the autopsy procedure a bit.
  • However, it also increases the cost of repairing a cracked display and the risk of damaging the screen during disassembly.
  • As with previous iPad models, the front panel is glued to the rest of the device, which has a high chance of damaging the glass during repairs.
  • All elements of the tablet are secured with glue, which makes repairs difficult.
Read more:  iPad Air 2 Activation Lock

How to disassemble iPad Air 2

06.01.2015 0 Comments

Repairing the iPad Air 2 at home, like, in principle, any unprofessional interference with the Apple device, will not lead to anything good. Do-it-yourself iPhone, iPad or MacBook repair is a surefire way to “get” on an expensive device recovery or even lose your pet altogether. But to find out what is inside a high-tech device, many would like to, so we present to everyone a complete disassembly of the iPad Air 2 from the famous “lomaster” iFixit. In no case, do not repeat what you see in this review, unless of course you want to go for a new tablet, and put your own under the leg of the sofa in the country.

The main problem when opening new ultra-thin tablets from Apple is assembly with glue. The familiar screw connections have been sacrificed for an ultra-thin design, making it even more difficult to open the iPad Air 2. But there are no barriers for an inquiring mind, and a few guitar picks and a household hair dryer solve this problem. To soften the glue that connects the two halves of the case, you need to gently heat the top of the tablet (which is with the screen) and gradually pry the front panel with picks. This must be done with extreme caution, as the iPad’s matrix is ​​very sensitive to both high temperature and mechanical stress.

In some service centers, they manage to perform this jewelry procedure even with the help of a construction hair dryer, but in this case, “you drive quieter. You will continue to move on”, so let’s leave the professional technique to the repair guru.

After opening the tablet, you can verify that Apple now arranges all cables related to the display matrix, now arranged in an organized way on the side in the lower corner.

The picture shows that the sensor itself and its connection to the cable in the iPad Air 2 is very similar to how it is implemented in the new generations of the iPhone.

Now is the time to remove the miniature tablet speakers. Unfortunately, their dismantling did not open the veil of secrecy and did not give out either the manufacturer or the exact characteristics. The speakers simply do not have any markings.

Gently removing the FaceTime HD camera and 8MP camera with microphone.

In a tablet with a Wi-Fi module, the antenna can be easily found at the top of the device.

We take out the light sensor, one of the main microphones and the “Power” button.

To secure the motherboard, the manufacturer again used glue, which, incidentally, does not make iPad repair more difficult. The problem is solved very simply: in order to separate the board from the device, you need to arm yourself with a hairdryer and patience again. As with the matrix, you also need to be extremely careful here.

In the iPad Air 2, as in previous models, the Lightning connector is simply soldered to the board without any tweaks.

Now you can see all the chips used in the tablet and read their markings.

The battery, which is no longer glued to the logic board of the device, can be easily removed from the device case.

That’s all. Only the “peel” of the tablet remains on the table, on which a magnet is clearly visible, designed to work with special cases Smart Cover.

In general, due to the adhered parts, the iPad Air 2 does not give the impression of being a repairable device. This is probably why iFixit specialists gave it only a 2 out of 10 rating for maintainability. The situation is quite different with the new iPhone. Ifixit masters showed what the iPhone 6 is made of, and at the same time appreciated it in terms of repair.

Step 7

  • In the photo we compare the disassembled and the previous model. On ours we see: the lack of a rear camera connector.

Step 10

  • Although very difficult to open the case and replace components is not impossible.

The battery is surrounded by cutouts that make it easy to remove from the back panel.

Many components are soldered together, requiring either very difficult or very expensive repairs if one of the parts is damaged.

The sensor has no external screws, it is fixed with glue.

Cables connected to the motherboard are at the top, but most are connected at the bottom, making it difficult to remove the board and disconnect cables.

Warning

This article is not a guide to action! All responsibility for collecting and disassembling your device rests with you.
Many manufacturers do not accept warranty obligations if the device has been disassembled by the user. If you do not want to void the warranty for your device, check the warranty terms in the documentation or with the device manufacturer.

Step 6

  • The photo removed the camera, cables and brackets surrounding it.

Step 9

  • Use tweezers to unlock the microphone connector.

Gently grasp the microphone connector and separate it from the board.

Remove the microphone along with the connector.

Some versions combine the microphone, volume buttons and power button into a single assembly.

The microphone is labeled S1055.

Warning

This article is not a guide to action! All responsibility for collecting and disassembling your device rests with you.
Many manufacturers do not accept warranty obligations if the device has been disassembled by the user. If you do not want to void the warranty for your device, check the warranty terms in the documentation or with the device manufacturer.

How to disassemble Apple iPad 2 Wi-Fi tablet

Disassembling the latest Apple iPad 2 Wi-Fi.

Warning

This article is not a guide to action! All responsibility for collecting and disassembling your device rests with you.
Many manufacturers do not accept warranty obligations if the device has been disassembled by the user. If you do not want to void the warranty for your device, check the warranty terms in the documentation or with the device manufacturer.

Tools used

1.

At last. The iPad is back in the hands of the iFixit team! And this time the number “2” is present in its name, i.E. This is an iPad 2 model!

The long-awaited iPad 2 urges to fill the shortcomings of the first-generation iPad model.

Specifications:

  • Dual-core processor with a clock speed of 1 GHz Apple A5
  • 512 MB LPDDR2 RAM
  • Built-in memory module with a capacity of 166/32/64 GB
  • 9.7-inch IPS multi-touch glossy LED-backlit touchscreen (1024 x 768 pixels)
  • Rear camera with high definition (720p) capability, front VGA camera
Read more:  How Much Does iPad Pro 12 9 Charge?

2.

Let’s compare Apple tablets in thickness. Compared to the previous version, the beveled edges of the iPad 2 cannot be replaced.

We suspect that in the new version of the tablet, the front panel is not held on latches, but is glued a la iPod Touch 4th Gen.

Due to the new shape of the case, the iPad will surely be called “big iPod”.

Apple summed up the tablet changes in six short phrases: “Thinner. Easier. Faster. Facetime calls. Smart Cover. 10 hours of battery life “.

The original iPad also has 10 hours of battery life, but when you consider the device is thinner, lighter and faster, that’s impressive.

3.

The iPad 2 has a new model number: A1395. Thanks, Apple! So much better than releasing different versions of MacBook Pro under the same number A1286 100,500 times.
The iPad 2 number obviously cannot be confused with 1337, the number of the first iPad version.

On the back of iPad 2, in the lower left corner, is the speaker grill. We’re not fans of mono audio, but stereo will have to wait until iPad 3 comes out.

4.

So let’s get down to disassembling the iPad 2 without delay!

It seems that, unlike the original iPad, here we cannot remove the bezel without the help of a hot air gun.

Having thoroughly warmed up the panel to soften the adhesive base, we begin to pry the panel with a plastic tool to open the cases.

Five.

And now the panel has detached! No snaps, solid glue.

No matter how hard it was for us to fiddle with the latches of the original iPad, there is even more fuss with glue. Don’t be surprised if after opening the front panel you want to break it.!

6.

The LCD is held together by a few screws here and there. Not a problem. We get a screwdriver.

7.

Under the display we find a battery with a voltage of 3.8 V and a capacity of 25 W / h. This is only slightly more than 24.8 Wh. The original iPad, so improved battery performance is related to software and updates to other device components.

The battery also shows a capacity of 6930 mAh, which seems to contradict the mentioned 25 W / h at a voltage of 3.8 V ((25 W / 3.8 V) 1000 = 6579 mAh), but 3.8 V is the nominal voltage, and not average. The average battery voltage over the discharge time is closer to 3.6 V, resulting in a more accurate formula ((25 W / 3.6 VV) 1000 = 6944 mAh).

By unplugging the cable you can remove the iPad 2 display.

8.

Disconnect the touchpad cable from the connector on the motherboard. What Apple device can do without Multi-Touch? How can it be without it.

Disconnecting the camera / volume daughterboard cable from the connector on the motherboard.

Nine.

Then we disconnect the docking cable from the connector on the motherboard.

After that, detach the speaker connector.

Ten.

Unscrew the screws securing the motherboard to the case using a Phillips screwdriver.

After that, the motherboard can be easily removed.

Eleven.

We remove the electromagnetic shields and consider the integrated circuits on the motherboard:

  • Broadcom BCM5973KFBGH touchpad microcontroller (circled in red)
  • Broadcom BCM5974 CKFBGH Capacitive Touch Panel Controller (Orange Outline)

Same as the original iPad. Nothing new!

Interestingly, there is a Wi-Fi board attached to the motherboard under one of the electromagnetic shields. It can be easily removed from the connector.

12.

Wi-Fi board; powered by another Broadcom chip, BCM43291HKUBC. This combo chip Wi-Fi / Bluetooth / FM-tuner from Broadcom has become an integral part of smartphones. An extremely successful design solution.

This is the part Apple installed in both the first iPad and iPhone 4.

13.

Chips on the motherboard:

  • Apple A5 dual-core 1GHz processor with 512MB Samsung RAM (circled in red).
  • Toshiba TH58NVG7D2FLA89 16GB NAND Flash (orange outlined).
  • Apple 343S0542. Judging by the inductors and capacitors surrounding the chip, this looks like the Dialog Semiconductor power controller installed in last year’s iPad (circled in yellow).
  • Texas Instruments CD3240B0 11AZ4JT G1 touchpad line driver, working with the above Broadcom BCM5973 and BCM5974 chips (circled in blue).
  • Power Management IC S6T2MLC N33C50V (circled in turquoise).

The A5 processor was released in late January. Mid-February 2011. Its release was clearly in a hurry. It looks like the A5 processor is the APL0498, replacing the A4 / APL0398 found in the iPad 1 and iPhone.

Chip with Apple marking 338S0940 A0BZ1101 SGP. This is similar to the Cirrus audio codec our colleagues at Chipworks found on the Verizon iPhone, but had to remove the chip from the motherboard to be sure.

Fourteen.

And this is what the motherboard looks like from the back side.

Exactly. Completely empty, so let’s move on!

15.

Removing the lithium polymer battery from the back of the case.

Ipad 2 uses three large lithium-ion batteries to provide 10 hours of battery life.

Sixteen.

Unscrew the screw that secures the volume button to the body.

17.

From the back, we remove the camera from the slot.

18.

Removing the board with the volume control and screen rotation button.

This small board houses the AGD8 2103 gyroscope and the LIS331DLH accelerometer, both from STMicroelectronics.

Nineteen.

We unscrew the screw securing the front camera module to the case, pry the module to peel it off, and remove.

20.

Front camera module includes camera, headphone jack and microphone.

21.

Unscrew the 2 screws securing the dock connector.

22.

Unscrew a few more screws and remove the earpiece speaker module.

The speakers are so tiny, as if the idea of ​​adding them came to the engineers too late.

23.

Ipad 2 Repair Ease: 4 out of 10 (10 is easiest to repair).

  • The LCD is quite easy to remove after removing the bezel.
  • Only standard Phillips screws used, no 5-blade or 3-blade trick.
  • The bezel is now glued to the body, which greatly increases the chance of glass cracking when trying to remove it.
  • The LCD is glued to the bezel with foam tape, which greatly increases the likelihood of breakage when disassembled.
  • The battery is very securely attached to the back of the case and you will have to remove the motherboard to remove it.
  • The connectors on the front panel cannot be reached until the LCD is removed.

I recommend some more interesting things:

  • How to disassemble Apple iPad Wi-Fi tablet
  • How to disassemble a Samsung Galaxy Tab tablet
  • How to Disassemble the 4th Generation Apple iPod Touch
  • How to disassemble Apple iPad 3 4G tablet

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