GoPro HDMI output. GoPro Media Mod Teardown
GoPro Media Mod Teardown
Built for Vloggers the GoPro Media Mod allows users to accessorize their GoPro with an external LCD and microphone. Code named Borg it finally shipped three months later than the original GoPro HERO8 release date. From our analysis, this delay was caused by the software lagging the hardware.
It’s very important to know the media mod removes the waterproof rating of your GoPro Camera. With that said, the ports are sealed, and there is a gasket which mates the media mod with the battery compartment. A membrane does exists for the microphones, but due to them wanting decent sound, I’m assuming it’s not as robust as the membrane found on the camera. Also, if water does enter into the microphone screen, its going to have a hard time getting out.
Only time will tell how this does in the elements, snow, and the worst possible: saltwater. If you do get salt water into the ports, be sure to remove from the camera and flush the ports with distilled water immediately!
Thankfully, sealed ports
As always, I enjoy looking at the main components of the system. Nothing really surprising here from our initial assumptions.
USB Type-C Power Delivery Controller. Non secure code. Monitor type
Same as used in Mic Adapter
USB 2.0 Port Protection with Charger Detection
2x MEMS Microphone Labeled EY19 AP06
There really isn’t too much you can do to the GoPro Media Mod. With that said, you can simply read out the Cypress CCG2 chip as it is non-secured. The product identifier for this accessory is ‘8’ as we added onto our Herobus Research list. Cloning is limited via their ATSHA204A part which performs Identify Friend or Foe. The authorizing MCU on the GoPro Hero[5-8] can be unlocked to allow non-authorized devices, but no one has released this exploit yet.
Cypress Programming and Debug Pins
Directional Microphone Layout
Interesting enough there are only two build in MEMS based microphones in the GoPro Media Mod pointing front and rear. I missed the copy on the website that says directional mic, and just assumed there would be stereo sound. If you want stereo sound, you can chose to use the microphones on the GoPro HERO8 itself. These are unfortunately covered up by the Media Mod’s cage so sound may be affected.
Not so directional.
If you bought the media mod for better audio, you’re going to be disappointed. An external microphone is needed. The built in microphones are not really directional at all, but in the same chamber only a centimeter apart and orthogonal to the sound wave. I’m not a microphone designer, but this seems suspect to me. Perhaps they do some DSP processing to the signal, but my guess was this whole assembly was designed differently and cost reduced. That center cut was most likely for the signals to pass through and the two hole for the fasteners to the microphones. It would be interesting to see if reviewers got a different model.
The Media Mod is definitely a huge improvement over the horrific GoPro Mic Adapter brick built for the GoPro Hero[5-8]. Although, an audio meter UI should be forthcoming, a headphone jack would have been super helpful to tune the input levels. The construction is acceptable, but really would have really loved to see some port protection for those in salt water climates who are not using all the ports. Overall, it’s worth the 79 if your need HDMI and/or better audio input for a microphone or line-in. We buy all our GoPro products and are obviously not endorsed by GoPro Inc or their competitors.
LEGAL: This product and/or service is not affiliated with, endorsed by, or in any way associated with GoPro Inc. or its products and services. GoPro, Hero, and their respective logos are trademarks or registered trademarks of GoPro, Inc. HEROBUS and BACPAC are trademarks of GoPro Inc.
Review: DJI O3 Air Unit and DJI Goggles 2 | How to Setup and Best Settings
DJI has just unveiled its latest game-changers, the Goggles 2 and DJI O3 Air Unit. These next-generation devices boast remarkable enhancements in image quality, features, and resolution, which now reaches a stunning 1080p at up to 100fps. But, is it worth it for everyone, especially those who already own the original DJI FPV system, to upgrade to the new Air Unit O3 and Goggles 2? Let’s delve into the details and find out.
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If you’re still unsure about which FPV system is the best fit for you in 2023, check out my comprehensive summary here: https://oscarliang.com/fpv-system/
Where to Buy?
Purchase the DJI Goggles 2 at:
- GetFPV: https://oscarliang.com/product-l6c2
- AliExpress: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DeYafE7
- RDQ: https://oscarliang.com/product-ju88
- Amazon: https://amzn.to/3HDvOXr
Secure the DJI O3 Air Unit from:
- RDQ: https://oscarliang.com/product-sadl
- GetFPV: https://oscarliang.com/product-4blv
- AliExpress: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DdQYArv
- Amazon: https://amzn.to/3RtWfm1
The complete Air Unit O3 package, including the camera and antenna, retails at US229. However, you can purchase individual spare parts separately, an excellent option for those who might need to replace a damaged component without buying an entirely new unit:
- O3 Camera Module (US109): https://oscarliang.com/product-68q4
- O3 Transmission module (US169): https://oscarliang.com/product-b5jw
- Dual Antenna (US19): https://oscarliang.com/product-lhx2
- 3in1 cable (US9): https://oscarliang.com/product-36t0
A Closer Look at the DJI O3 Air Unit
The DJI O3 Air Unit sports a sleek, square design with subtle ventilation on all sides, reminiscent of the Caddx Vista. The unit includes a 6-pin JST connector, USB-C port, micro SD card slot, camera cable, and antenna cable, with the camera connected via a braided cable.
In essence, DJI took the same camera and video transmitter from the recently released DJI Avata drone, repackaged it into a “DIY” bundle, and dubbed it the O3 Air Unit. As a result, it boasts the same image quality as the Avata drone.
The O3 Air Unit is compatible with both the new DJI Goggles 2 and the older DJI FPV Goggles V2 (albeit with reduced performance). However, the DJI FPV Goggles V1 is not compatible, likely due to its lack of dual-Band capability.
Interestingly, the older V2 goggles provide lower latency but at a reduced resolution. While the difference between 1080p and 810p may not seem significant, it’s almost double the pixel count and can create a noticeable difference in image quality.
- Price: 229
- 1/1.7-inch 4:3 image sensor
- 155° FOV
- 10km range
- O3 Air Unit Dimension 30.5 x 30.5 x 14.5mm
- O3 Air Unit Mounting Hole Pattern 25.5 x 25.5mm (M1.6 screws)
- Camera module dimension: 20mm (width) x 21.2mm (length) including lens
- Camera module mounting: 2 holes on each side 6mm apart (M2)
- Camera ribbon cable length: 115mm
- Antenna wire length 85mm
- Length of silicon wires to FC: 100mm
- Input voltage: 7.4V to 26.4V (2S to 6S)
- Weight: 39.5 grams (whole setup)
Size and Weight
The DJI O3 Air Unit is more compact and lighter than the original DJI FPV Air Unit (39.5G vs 53.4g). However, it’s larger and heavier than the the Runcam Link / Caddx Vista (33g) and the Walksnail Avatar VTX/Cam combo (28g). The O3 Air Unit is similar in height to the Vista but wider and longer, comparable to the Avatar VTX in terms of width and length.
DJI designed the Air Unit with two antennas housed together for easy mounting, making them appear as a single antenna. Two wires emerge from the antenna and connect to separate U.FL connectors on the Air Unit.
Featuring 25.5×25.5mm mounting with M1.6 screws, the O3 Air Unit is slightly larger than the Vista but should still fit most frames available.
However, the camera module’s large lens and non-standard dimensions pose a challenge for current FPV frames. The bigger camera, which houses a larger sensor, theoretically offers better image quality and low light performance. Installing it may require custom-made 3D printed brackets or a new frame specifically designed for the O3 Air Unit.
None of my existing frames natively fit the camera module; all require 3D printed holders. The camera protrudes from the frame due to its width, offering limited protection during crashes.
On the other hand, the video transmitter is small enough to fit most frames. If your frame doesn’t have 25.5×25.5 mounting, you can either create an adapter or use double-sided tape and a zip tie for securement.
This is the iFlight Nazgul V2 I just installed the DJI O3 inside.
Image Quality and Performance
The O3 Air Unit essentially serves as a 4K action camera.
Compared to the previous DJI FPV Air Unit, the O3 Air Unit’s image quality is markedly improved, boasting greater detail, dynamic range, and more resolution and frame rate options.
Users can adjust exposure, white balance, ISO, and shutter speed through the goggles menu, offering flexibility similar to a GoPro. The field of view can also be modified, but this only affects onboard recording, not what you see in the goggles (which always display a “Wide” FOV). I recommend switching to a 4:3 aspect ratio in the goggles for additional vertical FOV, as the image sensor is 4:3.
When comparing the video transmitter and camera, the 229 DJI O3 is roughly 70 more expensive than the Walksnail Combo, 90 more than the Runcam Link Wasp cam combo, and 50 more than the HDZero combo (Freestyle VTX Micro Cam V2).
The higher price of the DJI O3 System accounts for added features, such as a true 1080p video link, 4K stabilized onboard recording, and built-in radio control link. For some users, these features may be sufficient to replace a heavy HD action camera, resulting in a lighter quadcopter with improved flight performance.
However, in the event of a crash, the first component to suffer damage is likely the camera, and replacing it isn’t cheap. The O3 camera module costs 109, while other digital FPV system cameras average between 40 and 60.
The O3 Air Unit serves not only as an FPV camera but also as an HD action camera. It can record up to 4K 60fps in a 16:9 aspect ratio or 2.7K at 120fps. The built-in RockSteady feature provides video stabilization, and when disabled, gyro data is available alongside video files for use with Gyroflow stabilization.
Keep in mind that vibrations can significantly impact Rocksteady’s performance. With the gyro sensor located inside the camera module, the O3 Air Unit requires a clean drone build and effective camera mounting to dampen vibrations for optimal stabilization.
While the image quality of onboard recording may not match the latest GoPro cameras (it is closer to a GoPro Hero 6 in my opinion), it is likely sufficient for most FPV hobbyists. The 20GB built-in memory can hold about 20 minutes of 4K 60fps recording, and a micro SD card can be used for additional storage. However, there is no onboard microphone for sound recording. The O3 Air Unit’s internal storage is a convenient backup for when you forget your SD card and you won’t go home empty handed.
An ND filter can be added to the O3 camera to create more motion blur for cinematic videos, but this also affects the image displayed inside the goggles, making it less flexible than using a separate action camera. An ND filter option for the O3 is available here: https://oscarliang.com/flywoo-nd-filter-o3/
The DJI O3 Air Unit boasts a maximum range of 10km (6.2 miles) in FCC mode and 2km in CE mode. This impressive range often exceeds the battery life of most drones. Tests have shown the O3 can go even further with aftermarket higher gain antennas on the goggles.
Built-in Radio Control Link
The O3 Air Unit includes an SBUS output, similar to the original Air Unit and Vista. It is compatible with the DJI remote controller V2, which comes with the Avata and DJI FPV Drone, allowing you to fly your drone without an external receiver like Crossfire or ExpressLRS.
While using the DJI remote controller 2 simplifies drone setup, the built-in radio link may not offer the same range and packet rate as high-performance radio links like ExpressLRS. For a more solid radio link and improved performance, consider using a dedicated receiver in your drone. Another disadvantage of the DJI Radio 2 is the lack of functionality and screen, making it less customizable and feature-rich compared to similarly sized radios like the Radiomaster Zorro.
The O3 Air Unit is known to generate more heat and is more prone to overheating than the Vista and original FPV Air Unit. Ensuring proper cooling is essential for maintaining performance and reliability. Enable low power mode to transmit at the lowest possible power level when the drone is not armed.
Has to be Connected to an FC for Full Power
Keep in mind that even with Low Power mode off, the O3 Air Unit does not output maximum RF Power until it receives the Arming command from the flight controller. This is a concern for those flying fixed wings without a flight controller, as it currently seems that the best range requires connecting the O3 to an FC. I think this might just be a bug and hopefully it will get fixed by DJI in the future(?).
But I think it makes sense to use an FC and GPS capability on a wing if you plan to use the expensive O3 Air Unit on it.
Pros and Cons
- Update the O3 Air Unit without powering up your quad, avoiding overheating on the bench
- Access both internal storage and SD card through USB without plugging in LiPo
- Compatible with both DJI Goggles 2 and FPV Goggles V2
- Larger image sensor
- DJI’s Flagship O3 Video Streaming
- Built-in 20GB memory for high-quality onboard recording, with micro SD card support for memory expansion
- 4K recording can potentially replace GoPro
- Built-in RockSteady Stabilization and Gyroflow support
- Native Betaflight OSD Support (MSP Displayport), eliminating the need for hacking
- Records OSD and the entire menu in Goggles DVR
- Incompatible with DJI FPV Goggles V1
- expensive than other digital FPV systems
- Larger and heavier than the Vista
- Camera module too big for most frames
- Consumes 40% more power than the Vista due to 4K onboard recording, stabilization, and better encoding. This not only increases the risk of overheating but also requires a BEC capable of handling at least 17W-18W (e.g., 2A at 9V) for safety
- Does not output maximum RF power unless used with a flight controller (with MSP UART connected), making it less ideal for wings without an FC
DJI Goggles 2
The new DJI Goggles 2 have been completely redesigned, offering a more compact form factor that is easier to carry around compared to previous versions.
They are roughly the same size as the Orqa FPV.One Pilot.
Left: DJI Goggles 2; Right: Orqa FPV.One Pilot
Left: DJI Goggles 2; Right: Walksnail Avatar (Fatshark Dominator HD)
The Goggles 2 feature OLED screens, which are a significant improvement over the LCD screens in the V1 and V2. The OLED screens offer better contrast, vibrant colors, and sharper images, which enhance the HD video experience.
- Two Micro-OLED Screens, screen size 0.49 inch
- Screen resolution 1920x1080p
- 2 Hour Battery Time with the included battery
- Diopter Adjustment (2 to.8), but no astigmatism correction support
- IPD: 56-72 mm
- FOV: 51° diagonally in 4:3 aspect ratio
- Max Video Transmission Bitrate: 50Mbps
- Video Transmission Encoding: H.265/H.264
- Supports MP4 and MOV Video and Audio Playback Formats
- Input voltage: 2S
- Supports DLNA Protocol (Wi-Fi streaming)
- Wi-Fi protocol: Wi-Fi 802.11b/a/g/n/ac
- Supports head tracking
- Dual Band capability 2.4GHz and 5.8GHz
- Dimension with antenna folded: 167.40×103.90×81.31 mm
- Weight: 290g 298g
Differences between FPV Goggles V2 and DJI Goggles 2
DJI’s naming convention can be confusing, so let’s clarify the differences between these two goggles.
The FPV Goggles V2 goggles were released around the same time as the DJI FPV drones in 2020. The new DJI Goggles 2 were released more recently, alongside the DJI Avata drones in Fall 2022.
DJI FPV Goggles V2 (Previous generation)
The Goggles 2 are significantly lighter and smaller than the FPV Goggles V2. DJI managed to make them more compact while also incorporating better technology.
Left: New DJI Goggles 2; Right: Old DJI Goggles V2
The new DJI O3 Air Unit is compatible with both the FPV Goggles V2 and Goggles 2 headsets. However, with the V2 Goggles, you won’t get the full performance. On the FPV Goggles V2, the video feed is 810p 120fps with 28ms latency, while on the Goggles 2, it’s 1080p 100fps with 30ms latency.
Note that the new Goggles 2 do not have AV input, so they don’t support analog FPV systems, unlike the previous FPV Goggles V1/V2. They also don’t have HDMI input, so they don’t support other digital FPV systems like HDZero or Avatar.
Can’t decide which goggles to get in 2023? Check out my FPV goggles buyer’s guide: https://oscarliang.com/fpv-goggles/
The two foldable antennas on the Goggles 2 are omni-directional linearly polarized antennas, and there are two additional internal antennas, which are also omni-directional linearly polarized. The O3 Air Unit also has linear antenna, so they work well together – two linear antennas in 45-degree to each other inside the same housing.
However the Vista normally comes with LHCP antennas, therefore the Goggles 2 might perform worse with the Vista. There will be some signal loss due to the difference in polarization, but it should be fine for short to mid range flying.
The two external antennas are removable and connected via MCX connectors, allowing for potential aftermarket antenna upgrades in the future. The two internal antennas are harder to access, so it’s unlikely that ordinary pilots would replace them.
The foldable design is convenient, and since antennas are included, you save money compared to many FPV goggles that don’t come with antennas.
The Goggles 2 have no buttons, relying on a trackpad for navigation and menu control. This innovative design is likely cheaper to produce and more durable than mechanical buttons, but it can be less user-friendly. The trackpad may register incorrect gestures, which can be slightly annoying, and it takes some time to get used to. On the bright side, the lack of buttons means you won’t accidentally press them when putting on or taking off the goggles.
Here’s a sample footage from the DVR (using O3 Air Unit).
The Goggles 2 DVR can now record the entire screen, including OSD and menu (and you can also choose to record the clean feed without any OSD if you prefer – the option is in the menu). This feature is exclusive to the Goggles 2, as overlaying the OSD/menu on top of the video feed requires additional encoding and processing power only available in the newer goggles. With the FPV Goggles V2 and O3 Air Unit, you will still get a clean feed DVR as before.
DVR videos are in 1080p 60fps, taking up more space than before and requiring a faster SD card. Note that the video in the goggles and goggles DVR are not stabilized. You can choose in the settings whether or not to store the OSD data in an.srt file (subtitles).
IPD and Focus Adjustment
You can’t wear glasses while using the Goggles 2, as you can with the FPV Goggles V2. However, they have a wide FOCUS adjustment range between 2 and.8. Once you’ve set the IPD and focal adjustments, you can lock the knobs to prevent accidental changes.
There’s a sensor between the lenses that can detect whether you’re wearing the goggles or not. When you take the goggles off, it automatically shuts the screens off to save power. When you put them back on, the screens take about half a second to turn on. There are some concerns about long-term reliability, but it’s a sleek feature nonetheless.
The headstrap is attached to the goggles via velcro and is easily removable if you prefer an aftermarket strap. It works well for the most part, but a wider, more flexible, and stretchy strap might be preferable. It’s not designed to hold the battery on the strap, so you may need a 3D-printed holder for that. Currently, many pilots simply put the battery in their while flying.
The goggles come with a 2S 1800mAh battery pack (weight: 120g), providing about 3 hours of battery life per charge.
I haven’t opened the battery yet, but it’s been reported online that it contains two 18650 Li-ion cells, which some users have replaced with 21700 cells for increased capacity (requires a 3D printed case). This may be a modification worth considering in the future.
The DJI Goggles 2 has a USB-C port for video output. You’ll need a USB-C to USB-C cable and the DJI Fly app installed on your smartphone. It’s not available in the Play store; you can download the APK from DJI’s website: https://www.dji.com/nl/downloads/djiapp/dji-fly
This displays the video feed along with Betaflight OSD on your phone, but it doesn’t display the menu. Currently, there’s no way to get a clean video feed from the Goggles 2 (without OSD and logo). It’s also unknown if it’s possible to get an HDMI video output from the Goggles 2. If you want a clean feed and HDMI output when using the O3 Air Unit, the FPV Goggles V2 can do it, but it can’t display the OSD at all.
Here’s a compatibility table (last updated Feb 2023):
How To Setup DJI Goggles 2 and O3 Air Unit
Before powering on the goggles, fully charge the battery. While a charger isn’t included, any USB charger should work. The goggles support PD and QC charging up to 12W. Fully charging the battery from empty takes just under 1 hour.
I read online it’s possible to power the goggles from a PD/QC cable power bank or power adapter, though this hasn’t been tested by me personally as it requires a special USB cable, such as this: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DkomM0j
Unfold the two top antennas, remove the screen protector, and install the head strap, which is attached to the goggles with Velcro.
Power On Goggles
To power on the goggles, connect the battery to the goggles. There’s a power button on the battery; press it once to check the battery level, press it again and hold it for two seconds to power it on/off. You’ll hear sound from the goggles when it’s booted up (the goggles have speakers!).
Once you have an image in the goggles, adjust IPD and FOCUS using the dials on the bottom. Adjust one eye at a time with the other eye closed. Push the dial left and right so you can see all four corners relatively well with minimal blurry edges. For some people, it’s impossible to have absolutely clear corners/edges, just get it as good as you can. Then twist the dial to adjust FOCUS until the image is crystal clear. Push the knob up and turn it to the left to lock it in place to prevent accidental changes to IPD and FOCUS.
The FOCUS adjustment allows.8.0D – 2.0D. If you require diopter outside of this range or astigmatism correction, eyeglass frames are provided that can be installed on the goggles, allowing you to use your own lenses.
Unlike most other FPV goggles, the Goggles 2 have no buttons; control is via a touchpad. The first time you power on the goggles, you’ll go through a tutorial explaining how to use the touchpad to access the menu, change settings, and lock/unlock the screen. It’s pretty straightforward.
You should get an SD card for recording DVR, which can record your flying and help you locate your drone after a crash. Because the DVR records 1080p videos, you need a fast card. The Sandisk 16GB Class10 A1 card from the DJI FPV Goggles V2 (which records 720p) gave a slow SD card warning. This card works well: Samsung Evo Plus U3: https://amzn.to/3j8lg9A
Remember to format the SD card inside the goggles.
After the tutorial, activate your goggles using the DJI Assistant 2 (Consumer Drones Series) software available on Windows and MacOS – NOT the DJI FPV Series. Download: https://www.dji.com/nl/downloads/softwares/dji-assistant-2-consumer-drones-series.
Connect the O3 Air Unit to your computer via the USB-C port. You don’t need to power the O3 Air Unit. The USB-C cable isn’t included, but any USB-C data cable should work fine.
You can update the O3 Air Unit using the DJI Assistant 2 (Consumer Drones Series) software available on Windows and MacOS – NOT the DJI FPV Series. Download: https://www.dji.com/nl/downloads/softwares/dji-assistant-2-consumer-drones-series.
Connect the O3 Air Unit to your computer via the USB-C port. You don’t need to power the O3 Air Unit. The USB-C cable isn’t included, but any USB-C data cable should work fine.
If you updated your FPV Goggles V2 to support the O3 AU, you’ll have to use the “DJI Assistant 2 (Consumer Drone Series)” too, as well as for the Vista that you updated to support the Goggles 2. DJI will likely move away from the FPV Drone Series in the future.
Connection O3 to FC
The O3 Air Unit has the same pinout as the previous Air Unit and Vista, it’s plug and play with flight controllers with the DJI 6-pin connector. It can be powered by 2S to 6S voltage (7.4-26.4V). The O3 max power consumption is around 16W, drawing 1.6A at 10V, if you are powering it from a BEC, make sure it’s powerful enough.
For most FC it’s plug and play, no soldering, but beware of the wiring order, in some rare cases you might need to swap cables around.
If you are using your own radio receiver, make sure to remove the DJI HDL and GND wires from the cable like so.
Now connect the O3 AU to your computer via USB-C (no need to power the quad), open “DJI Assistant 2 (Consumer Drone Series)“, and activate it, and also upgrade firmware to the latest version.
If you want to record videos inside the O3 air unit, you need to get an SD card. I was getting a slow SD card warning using the Sandisk Extreme Pro 64GB U3 A1 card. Switched to a Samsung 256GB Evo A2 fixed that issue, you can get this card here: https://amzn.to/3B8JplQ
It’s best if you format the card inside the Air Unit (option in the goggles’ camera menu).
The DJI O3 Air Unit fully supports Betaflight OSD. Betaflight OSD menu and all the OSD elements are fully functional.
If you are using Betaflight 4.3, go to the Presets tab, and search for “dji”, the “FPV.WTF MSP-OSD” preset should pop up, in options, select the UART you’ve connected to the O3 AU.
Picking this preset is the same as entering these command lines in CLI, but Preset makes it so much easier!
set osd_displayport_device = MSP set displayport_msp_serial = x (should be 1 less than the UART number, e.g. if UART1, enter 0 here) save
Pairing DJI Goggles 2 and O3 Air Unit
Power on the Goggles. On your track pad, swipe right to open the System menu, go to Status and switch to “DJI O3 Air Unit”.
Then press the link button between the lenses.
Power on your O3 Air Unit, wait until the green LED turns off and becomes red. Press the bind button, it will start flashing. When binding is successful, the LED will turn green, and you should have an image from the camera in your Goggles.
To enable HD OSD, you should go to the settings menu in the goggles, Display, under Canvas Mode, select HD OSD. This will allow you to display the OSD in smaller font and you would be drag those OSD elements all the way the edges of the screen. If you select Normal mode, the font would be much bigger.
If the Canvas Mode option is missing in the goggles, maybe you need to update firmware.
And in Betaflight OSD tab, make sure HD is selected under Video Format.
Binding DJI FPV Goggles V2 and O3 Air Unit
In the FPV Goggles V2 menu, go to Settings = Device = Switch to DJI FPV, then power cycle the goggles. This is important; if you are in the wrong mode, the update won’t work properly.
Then connect your V2 goggles to the computer, open up DJI Assistant 2 (DJI FPV Series) app, and update to the latest firmware. If you are interested in rooting your goggles and install WTFOS, you must root them before updating. info can be found here.
Once updated, go to the menu, Settings = About = Switch Aircraft Model = DJI O3 Air Unit.
Power on the O3 Air Unit and Goggles, then press the bind buttons on both devices, and they should be bound within seconds.
Warning (23 Nov 2022): With the FPV Goggles V2, when you switch mode to use the O3 Air Unit, all your previous binds with the Vista and FPV Air Units will be lost! If you want to use your older air units and vista, you’d have to bind them again. Apparently, if you bind one of the old air units, all the binds come back (not confirmed), but then your binds with any O3 Air Units are gone. It seems to be more like a bug than a feature; hopefully, DJI can fix this in future firmware updates.
Unlock FCC Mode
In FCC mode, there should be 7 available channels in the 20MHz mode, and 3 available channels in the 40MHz mode.
If your Goggles 2 are shipped with CE mode (to comply with European regulations), they will be limited in terms of output power (only 25mW) and channels. There will be only 1 available channel in the 40MHz mode and 3 available channels in the 20MHz mode.
You can perform the “FCC hack” to unlock higher output power (more range and signal penetration) and more channels (allows more pilots in the air at the same time) if that’s legal where you fly. It’s simply a file you place in the goggles. Note that it’s NOT the naco text file we previously used with the Vista but the process is similar.
To switch to FCC mode, the method is exactly the same as for the DJI Avata drone. Simply get the file “ham_cfg_support” and unzip it to the root directory of the SD card and put it in the goggles.
To check if you are in FCC mode, go to Settings = Transmission = Channel Mode, switch to Manual, under 40MHz bandwidth, you should see 3 channels available in FCC mode. If you are in CE mode, it will only show 1 channel there.
The FCC mode is permanent, however you can go back to CE mode from FCC mode by factory reset the headset (in the menu Settings / About).
To start recording in the Goggles 2, swipe down from the top to access the Record button in the screen menu. Alternatively, you can set up the goggles and O3 AU to start recording as soon as you arm the quad (Settings=Camera=Advanced Camera Settings). This is a more convenient option for many pilots.
To download videos, plug in the USB cable. There’s no need to remove the SD card. For the O3 AU, you’ll see two separate external drives—one for the SD card and one for the internal memory. To download video off the Goggles 2, you should power them on first, otherwise connecting the USB cable does nothing.
You may find the video files get split in the O3 when it gets to about 4GB. This is due to the FAT32 format of the SD card, which has a 4GB file size limit. There is no work around to this unless you record at a lower resolution or frame rate which leads to smaller file size.
However, here’s the silver lining. When these split files are imported into a video editor sequentially, they should play back seamlessly. There shouldn’t be any skips, stutters, or overlaps. It means that while you might have multiple files for a single recording session, your final edited video can still be one smooth, continuous clip.
If you need to stablize these videos in Gyroflow, the program actually allows you to import these clips first before applying stabilization to ensure consistency.
AKA Spectator Mode, is a mode that allows you to watch other people fly (who also has the Goggles 2/ with O3 Air Unit). It should also work with people with V2 and Integra goggles if they are flying with the O3 Air Unit.
When using V2 goggles with the O3 air unit, the pilot’s goggles rebroadcast the signal, and other goggles tune into that rebroadcast. The audience may experience poorer quality video quality than the pilot. However, audience mode comes with a trade-off, as some of the bandwidth used for communication with the aircraft is now used for communicating with nearby goggles. As a result, the pilot may experience worse link quality.
Replacing Camera and Antenna
To remove the antenna from the O3 AU, take off the metal bar and disconnect the UFL connectors.
Here’s the summary, I will explain what the settings do after the break.
Recommended settings for best FPV experience:
- Auto Mode
- Aspect Ratio 4:3
- Color Normal
- ISO Max 3200
Recommended settings for the best HD recording (Using ND filter, Gyroflow stabilization, and Color grading):
- 2.7K 60fps
- Manual Mode
- Shutter 1/120
- ISO 100 (or higher depends on lighting)
- Aspect Ratio 4:3
- FOV Wide
- Color D-Cinelike
- EIS Off
Recommended settings for decent HD recording (for lazy people, no editing required):
- 2.7K 60fps
- Auto Mode
- Color Normal
- EIS On
- ISO Max 800 (or higher depends on lighting)
Resolution and Frame Rate
The best resolution and frame rate for your O3 Air Unit depends on your intended use. While 4K offers the highest bitrate and resolution, it lacks a 4:3 aspect ratio, which can impact post-processing. In general, 2.7K 100fps is a good option, offering a 4:3 aspect ratio, decent bitrate, and smooth video feed in the goggles. 100fps offers the smoothest flying experience, though your video editor might not support it (since most video editor only support up to 60fps), in this case you might want to use 60fps.
Higher frame rates typically allow for higher bitrates too. However, while resolution doesn’t impact your FPV feed, frame rate does, as the goggles will display the same frame rate you choose for recording.
Here is a list of the resolution/frame rate and the respective bitrate / data per minute.
- 1080p 120 100Mbps (750MB/min)
- 1080p 100 100Mbps (750MB/min)
- 1080p 60 80Mbps (600MB/min)
- 1080p 50 80Mbps (600MB/min)
- 1080p 30 40Mbps (300MB/min)
- 2.7K 120 150Mbps (1.13GB/min)
- 2.7K 100 150Mbps (1.13GB/min)
- 2.7K 60 130Mbps (0.98GB/min)
- 2.7K 50 130Mbps (0.98GB/min)
- 2.7K 30 80Mbps (600MB/min)
- 4K 120 150Mbps (1.13GB/min)
- 4K 100 150Mbps (1.13GB/min)
- 4K 60 150Mbps (1.13GB/min)
- 4K 50 150Mbps (1.13GB/min)
- 4K 30 110Mbps (0.83GB/min)
ISO and Shutter Speed
Setting ISO and Shutter Speed to Auto works well for most FPV lighting conditions. To do this, swipe up, select the first option (Mode), and choose Auto.
When using an ND filter, however, you should use Manual mode. Set the ISO as low as possible and choose a fixed Shutter Speed value according to your frame rate, such as one over twice your frame rate, to maximize the benefits of ND filters. But if you aren’t doing anything serious with the footage from the O3 air unit, then there’s no need to use ND filters in my opinion.
I shared my settings when using ND filters on the O3: https://oscarliang.com/flywoo-nd-filter-o3/
The O3 Air Unit offers two color modes: Normal and D-Cinelike. D-Cinelike provides a flat color profile, capturing a wider color gamut, dynamic range, and tonal range for greater color grading flexibility. However, it also affects what you see in the goggles.
Normal color is recommended for most uses, as it looks better in the goggles. If you plan to color grade your footage, D-Cinelike may be the better choice. To change the color mode, swipe up and find the last option (Color) in the menu.
EV, or exposure value, can be adjusted to your preference.
If you find the default settings too dark, consider increasing the EV to 0.3. To adjust EV, swipe up on the track pad and find the option in the camera settings.
Set the Sharpness to.1 for optimal image quality.
To do this, swipe right, go to Settings=Camera=Advanced Camera Settings.
Adjusting the Sharpness can have a noticeable effect on the image, and.1 provides a good balance between softness and over-sharpening.
Set Noise Reduction to.2 for the clearest image. This setting can have a more subtle effect, but reducing noise can improve details, especially in darker areas.
EIS, or Electronic Image Stabilization, is an option to use the built-in Rocksteady technology for stabilizing footage recorded by the O3 Air Unit. Note that this doesn’t affect what you see in the goggles, only the recorded videos.
Turning off EIS means the video isn’t stabilized but will record with gyro data for post-processing stabilization using Gyroflow. This method offers more customization options for stabilization. However, keep in mind that gyro data is only recorded when the Camera FOV is set to Wide or Normal.
For the best results, ensure your quad is relatively vibration-free, which is essential for both Rocksteady and Gyroflow. DJI recommends using 48KHz PWM frequency on your ESC.
Resolution and Frame rate
For the best flying experience, set the frame rate to 2.7K 100FPS (or 1080p 100FPS).
Here are the latency for each resolution/frame rate setting (figures from the SRT files in the O3 AU):
- 1080p 120 34ms
- 1080p 100 40ms
- 1080p 60 34ms
- 1080p 50 40ms
- 1080p 30 34ms
- 2.7K 120 34ms
- 2.7K 100 40ms
- 2.7K 60 34ms
- 2.7K 50 40ms
- 2.7K 30 34ms
- 4K 120 34ms
- 4K 100 40ms
- 4K 60 34ms
- 4K 50 40ms
- 4K 30 34ms
Latency appears to be affected only by frame rate. Although 100fps has higher latency at 40ms than other frame rates’ 34ms, I found 100FPS offering the smoothest FPV feed.
120fps seems to perform the same as 60fps, you can feel the frame rate in the goggles is lower, but still pretty good. At 50fps, it’s noticeably lower than 100fps and 60fps, but still flyable. But at 30fps, frame rate is so low you can almost “feel the stuttering” and it’s almost unflyable for me.
As mentioned, resolution has no effect on video feed, so you can select whatever resolution you want to use.
To adjust the resolution and frame rate, swipe up on the track pad and find “Video Quality” in the Camera settings.
Note that when you set 4K, you cannot use 4:3, only 16:9 is available. I don’t rely on the O3 for 4K recording, I much prefer to get the best flying experience in the goggles, so I normally go with 2.7K/100 (or just 1080p/100 if you want to save SD card space in the O3 AU).
Enable Enhanced Display to improve the viewing experience in various lighting conditions. To enable it, swipe down and select the Enhanced Display icon.
Set the bandwidth to 40MHz when flying alone, and 20MHz or 10MHz when flying in a group to minimize interference. To adjust the bandwidth, swipe right, go to Transmission, set Channel Mode to Manual, and select your desired bandwidth.
The larger the bandwidth, the better the image quality. So go with 40MHz whenever you can. But when flying with other people it’s better to choose a lower bandwidth which causes less interference and it allows more people to fly together. When using 40MHz, the maximum channel available is reduced from 7 to 3 (in FCC mode).
There is no noticeable difference between Focus Mode set to off and auto, so you can leave it at auto for now.
If you experience blurry edges with the Goggles 2, you can scale down the image for better clarity. To do this, swipe right, go to Settings=Display, and select 90% under Air Unit Display Scaling. This adjustment should help make the OSD around the corners clearer.
When it comes to signal performance, the O3 Air Unit definitely stands out as a significant upgrade over the Vista and original Air Unit. The image quality is noticeably better, with improved signal penetration and impressive 4K onboard recording with image stabilization. In my opinion, the extra cost is worth it compared to the original Air Unit and Vista. However, it should be noted that installing the O3 in an existing frame can be a bit of a challenge.
On the other hand, while the Goggles 2 have many improvements over their predecessor, they are not entirely an upgrade when it comes to signal performance. While the screens are much better and the overall size is smaller and lighter, the link quality hasn’t improved noticeably compared to the V2 goggles. It’s possible that this is due to the better aftermarket antennas available for the V2. It’s worth noting that there may be third-party antennas available in the future that can boost the range and penetration for the Goggles 2.
Comfort and User Experience
The comfort and user experience of the Goggles 2 are highly praised by many users. They are incredibly lightweight and easy to wear for extended periods of time. The lack of light leak is also a big plus for those who want a fully immersive flying experience.
However, some users have reported that it can take a bit of effort to get a good FOCUS on the screen compared to the V2 goggles. Additionally, some users have reported experiencing blurry edges on the Goggles 2, which can be a bit distracting.
Fortunately, there is a workaround by adjusting the screen scaling in the system settings. It’s also worth noting that having full Betaflight OSD support without any hacking is a nice bonus for those who want to customize their flying experience.
Micro Drone Support, Latency, Low Light
The O3 Air Unit may not be the best option for micro drones due to its size and weight. It’s better suited for larger quads like 5″, and for freestyle or cinematic flying. However, smaller drones can still be used with the O3 if the onboard recording capabilities are more important than weight.
For racing and aggressive flying in confined spaces where reaction time is crucial, other systems with lower and more consistent latency, like HDZero, may be a better choice. Additionally, the O3’s low light performance is not as strong as other options on the market at the moment.
Not a GoPro Replacement
While the O3 Air Unit is capable of recording in 4K and offers image stabilization, it may not be a suitable replacement for a dedicated action camera such as the GoPro. One limitation is that 4K recording is only available in a 16:9 aspect ratio, which can result in more cropping and lower resolution compared to using 4:3. The O3 Air Unit also requires careful handling to avoid issues with vibration and oscillation for stabilization features such as Rocksteady or Gyroflow to work effectively.
Another consideration is that changing camera settings on the O3 Air Unit can impact the user’s FPV experience and make it less flexible compared to using a GoPro. Additionally, it may be challenging to avoid getting props or other parts of the drone in the frame during HD video recording due to how the FPV camera is typically mounted.
While the O3 Air Unit’s image quality is improving and can be comparable to older GoPro models, the latest GoPro cameras still have better image quality overall. Therefore, it may be best to consider the O3 Air Unit as a decent replacement for older GoPro models rather than a complete replacement for a modern GoPro.
Overall, it seems that the DJI O3 Air Unit and Goggles 2 offer some significant upgrades over previous models in terms of image quality, signal penetration, and features such as onboard recording and stabilization. However, there are some drawbacks to consider, such as the O3’s size and weight being better suited for larger drones and its limitations as a replacement for a GoPro. The Goggles 2 are also not a complete upgrade over the V2, but do offer better screens and portability. Ultimately, the decision to invest in these new DJI products may come down to individual preferences and priorities, as well as budget considerations.
Buy the DJI FPV Goggles V2:
- AliExpress: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_De1DIgT
- Amazon: https://amzn.to/3WKNQeO
- GetFPV: https://oscarliang.com/product-awxy
- RDQ: https://oscarliang.com/product-fnzl
Get the DJI Goggles 2 here:
- GetFPV: https://oscarliang.com/product-l6c2
- AliExpress: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DeYafE7
- RDQ: https://oscarliang.com/product-ju88
- Amazon: https://amzn.to/3HDvOXr
Get the DJI O3 Air Unit here:
- RDQ: https://oscarliang.com/product-sadl
- GetFPV: https://oscarliang.com/product-4blv
- AliExpress: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DdQYArv
- Amazon: https://amzn.to/3RtWfm1
DJI FPV Goggles V2 Supports O3 Air Unit
To make your V2 goggles compatible with the new O3 Air Unit, you ned to update the goggles firmware first.
Switch the goggles to DJI FPV mode and then update the firmware to V01.04.0000 using DJI Assistant 2 (Consumer Drones Series) software on your computer. According to the fpv.wtf, updating to this firmware won’t affect the the ability to root the goggles as long as you make sure the firmware in DIY Mode (DJI Digital FPV System mode) is v1.00.06.06 or v1.00.06.08. However, if you intent to eventually root your DJI FPV Goggles V2 and want to play safe, you should perform the root hack in advance, once it’s rooted it’s permanent.
DJI Goggles 2 Supports Vista and FPV Air Unit
Update on 8th Dec 2022
As promised by DJI, they have added support to use the new DJI Goggles 2 with Runcam Link (Caddx Vista) and the FPV Ait Units. Also, the remote controller 2 will also support the Vista and FPV Air Unit.
- When using the Goggles 2 with the Vista and FPV Air Units, Canvas mode will work too, meaning full Betaflight OSD is supported, no need to root anymore (but still won’t work with V2 and V1 goggles, for these goggles you still need to root to get full Betaflight OSD support)
- For this support to happen, simply update to the latest firmware on your Vista/FPV Air Unit (V01.01.0000) and Goggles 2 (V01.03.0000) or newer, restart the devices after the update is complete. If you previously rooted and installed WTFOS, you need to uninstall WTFOS first: https://oscarliang.com/fpv-wtf-root-hack-dji/#How-To-Update-DJI-Firmware-After-Rooting. Your Vist is still rooted (it’s permanently) so you can always roll back and isntall WTFOS again if you want. Dont’ worry.
- To setup OSD, the process is the same as the O3 Air Unit
- FPV Air Unit (the old one) loses its ability of onboard recording when used with Goggles 2, hopefully it can be fixed in future firmware
- After the update, the Vista and FPV Air Unit won’t work with the V1/V2 goggles and the DJI FPV Remote Controller (V1). You can however downgrade the FPV Air Unit and Vista firmware to v01.00.06.08, if you want to use those older goggles and remote again. Though if you have V01.05.0000 on your V2 goggles, it will work with Vista/FPV Air unit with V01.01.0000 firmware
- Once updated, the Vista/Air Unit will work the same way as the O3 Air Unit, i.e. you cannot set output power anymore, it’s set dynamically by the system. You can still unlock FCC mode but using the same method as the O3 Air Unit (as I described in this post)
This is extremely good news for people who already own the older generation DJI video transmitters and also getting the new Goggles 2. That means you can continue to use your older gear and not have to upgrade all of them to the O3 Air Unit. But if you own both Goggles V2 and Goggles 2, then it will pretty much force you to choose which goggles to use as you cannot use both at the same time. If you bind your Vista to one goggles, you will lose the bind to the other. You can however roll back on the firmware if you wish.
Swipe right to go to the System menu, Status = Switch = DJI FPV Air Unit.
However the flying experience with O3 is far better than the Vista. Just based on my testing, the Vista with G2 seems to have much lower and less stable bitrate, it never goes higher than 45Mbps, and drops to around 20-30Mbps or even 10Mbps pretty quickly if you are behind trees, but I can still fly pretty far out though (1km). I haven’t pushed it to range limit yet. Also you can’t change output power, it’s dynamically controlled by the system just like the O3. And DVR recording has to be manually started, arming doesn’t start DVR automatically which I think it’s a bug. hopefully it gets fixed soon.
Updated on 07 Jan 2023
With the latest V01.02.0000 Firmware, 10-bit color is available for the O3 Air Unit in D-Cinelike color mode.
What 10-bit color does to your footage is that it would look more lifelike as a result because it contains more color information and has more color depth, and the transitions between different colors looks more natural.
Accessories and Upgrades
Shorter Power Cable
Lumenier Universal Antenna Adapter
You can swap out the original antennas on the DJI Goggles 2 for some higher gain antennas for better range and penetration. The antenna is removable and has a MCX connector which is not a common connector in FPV, therefore it will require special aftermarket antennas made for the Goggles 2. The good news is you can use these MCX to SMA or RP-SMA adapter, which allows you to use any existing SMA antennas on the Goggles 2.
Goggles 2 Battery Adapter
If you want to power your Goggles 2 from a 3S, 4S or even 6S LiPo battery, consider getting the Speedybee Goggles BEC: https://oscarliang.com/speedybee-goggles-bec/
Working with Gyroflow
How To Use Gyroflow
Stabilizing footage from a DJI O3 camera in Gyroflow is easy. The gyro data in integrated in the video files, and it also contains the required lens profile, eliminating the need for synchronization and configuration. Once you set up the camera settings, it’s just a “drop and go” process.
Here’s a quick step-by-step setup guide:
- Before you start recording, disable the in-camera stabilization (EIS/Rocksteady) and set your Field of View (FOV) to Wide. This is crucial as these settings ensure your camera records gyro data, which is needed for stabilization in Gyroflow.
- Once you have your footage, simply drag and drop the video file into Gyroflow.
- Click ‘Export’, and Gyroflow will handle the rest.
It’s important to note that the Ultrawide and Normal lens modes are not supported for this process. Stick with the Wide FOV setting for now.
Jello in Raw Footage
Changing Motor PWM Frequency
Adjust ESC PWM frequency to fixed 48 kHz for minimal vibration from motors. Why and How to guide: https://oscarliang.com/best-blheli-32-settings/
Soft Mounting the Camera
Soft-mount the O3 Air Unit camera with TPU holder, or rubber inserts to isolate vibration from the frame, avoiding direct mounting to the drone frame (to rigid material such as metal or carbon fibre parts). Most modern frames designed for the O3 camera come with this feature.
Check Your Lens
Another point to note is that the lens of the camera unit can sometimes become loose. If you encounter persistent issues, this might be something worth checking by unscrewing the back plate and put it back. Some users have found success by carefully gluing the lens into place. However, you may void the warranty by doing so, do this at your own risk.
Proper tuning of your quadcopter can also help minimize vibrations, learn about tuning here: How to Tune FPV Drone Filters and PID with Blackbox. Ensure your propellers are fresh and well-balanced, your drone is free from resonance issues, and you’re using RPM filtering.
Jello After Stabilziation
If your raw footage looks fine, and stabilization works fine, but you get jello after stabilization, you could try applying a lowpass filter for the gyro data.
The value for the filter will vary depending on the frame rate (FPS) of your footage and the frequency of vibrations present. As such, some experimentation with the filtering value may be required until your footage appears as desired. However, as a general rule, it’s advised to avoid setting the filter lower than 30 Hz.
DJI cameras, including the O3, generally have a file size limit of 4GB. This means longer recordings are automatically split into several parts. If you’re aiming to stabilize these split videos, you’ll need to merge the parts first.
Thankfully, Gyroflow can manage this task for you. Simply drag and drop all the split files into the program, ensuring they’re in the correct sequence, then you con proceed with the stabilization. The software will merge these files for you when you export them.
- Jan 2023 – review published
- Mar 2023 – added a list of accessories
- Jun 2023 – added info on how to use Gyroflow with O3 camera
How to Flash/Update Betaflight on Flight Controller?
What’s New in Betaflight 4.4 | How to Update?
103 Комментарии и мнения владельцев
Hello, could you help me? I have a question, is INAV compatible with dji O3? I connect my drone to INAV and the O3 does not work, the O3 leds are off, and with betaflight it does work, how can I solve this problem? Thank you very much
i have not tried inav with O3, but it does work with the Vista so I presume it should also work with the O3. If the LED is off it doesn’t sound like it’s caused by FC firmware compatibility. The O3 wills till work without connecting to an FC, the only difference is that OSD might not work. Double check your wiring (power and ground), make sure the O3 is being powered by an appropriate voltage.
Hi Oscar, I’m noticing that my Air Unit DVR is not recording gyro data. settings were: 2k60fps Wide EIS Off I recorded lots of video and no gyro data. Any idea why?
Hi Oscar, I crashed my drone quite a bit trying to fly line of sight and after I looked again into the goggles, the video feed hangs, after restarting everything, it now shows only black video and 0 mbps, is this an antennae issue or camera issue and how can i fix it? Thanks
It could be either or both, because the O3 won’t work if the camera isn’t working. What LED lights are you getting on the O3 when powered on?
yes the chart is still valid til this day, not much has changed, except they have released a new Goggles Integra, which basically has the same compatibility as the Goggles 2. Also there’s a new firmware for the DJI Mini 3 Pro that supports the Goggles 2 and Motion Remote Controller V2 which I touched on here: DJI Mini 3 Pro vs DJI Mini 3: A Comprehensive Review and Key Differences to Help You Choose
Hey Oscar, As usual, your reviews and tutorials are by far the most relevant and thorough in the industry. I wanted to ask are the U.FL connectors frequency specific? For example, one connector is specifically for 5.8 and the other for 2.4? Or are there two identical antennas/connectors with both frequencies radiating from each antenna?
Connectors are not frequency specific, you can use it for both 2.4GHz and 5.8Hz. But the antenna it’s connected to is.
Help! DJI 03 canvas mode does not work. I’ve pretty much exhausted all ideas to get the OSD working on my goggles 2. No OSD information is displayed at all. The full camera image is displayed with the base DJI information: Betaflight 4.4.1 DJI Goggles: V01.05.0000 DJI Air Unit: V01.02.0000 Crossfire latest version Mamba F722_2022B flight controller Flight Controller factory connector uses Uart4 to connect to DJI air unit Peripherals dropdown set to VTX (MSPDisplayport) on Uart4 with Configuration/MSP slider on OSD Option on Configuration page slider on Video format on OSD page set to HD DJI Goggles 2 display option set to HD osd_canvas_width = 53 osd_canvas_height = 20 osd_displayport_device = MSP DJI 03 RX connected to flight controller TX DJI 03 TX connected to flight controller RX Any ideas would be helpful. Thanks
Yeah I have the same problem and can not figure it out at all. Also same specs except for FC and using ELRS
Hi guys. Please help me. I’m test djo o3 with V2 googles and have some an unpleasant feature – when the bitrate is below 50 – the fps drops, at 20 mbps the fps is no longer pleasant on whist it was not there at 15 mbps you can get 120fps but the picture can crumble. It’s like you’re flying at 30 frames per second. Is this only on V2 or is it an O3 feature?
video out only works on Android for now, not iPhone. It’s probably cheaper for you to buy an Android phone than a DJI controller, but either one will work.
Hi Oscar! I think I have a sort of unusual issue with one of my O3 units. This is an iFlight Defender BnF. I ended up buying two (long story) but one was PNP and the other TBS Crossfire. I am in the process of switching over all my quads to ELRS. The first Defender had no issues. The second worked but was getting no OSD or data at all from the Flight Controller (voltage showed as 0.0, no OSD text, no arming signal so video bandwidth stayed low). I found that several tiny pins on the FC connector to the O3 had been smashed. They build those quads with NO spare wire length so it’s very difficult (for me) to get everything plugged back in. So, with a magnifying glass and LED on my head, and a tiny flat screwdriver and tiny pointy file, I was able to get all the pins straight — at least I thought so. Now keep in mind, I only need the first 4 pins with my ELRS setup, so the rest are not used. The plug went in ok and it seemed like everything would work. But now — I am getting voltage from the quad on screen, and it is sending an arming signal, so the video is fine and it starts recording. But otherwise I get NO OSD from betaflight. I assumed that OSD would be carried on the same wire as the telemetry data like voltage and arming? Or do you think I still have a smashed pin? I don’t mind trying to just solder directly to the tiny FC. BUT I don’t know which wire would carry that OSD data but not the craft voltage and arming signal. I know I am probably being dumb with this. I don’t mind saying so as I am still kind of new to all this so I gotta start somewhere. I think I have 3 options — 1 – solder the wire that is not sending data through the connector. 2 – Fly it as is and don’t worry about the OSD since everything else works fine. or 3 – Use the O3 in a new build since it’s only the connector on the FC that is damaged, and after all I have another Defender 25 that works perfectly anyway. I can keep the rest of this one as spare parts I guess. I’m using DJI Goggles 2 if it matters. I really appreciate any info you can give me about which wire I need to look at more carefully. Thanks so much for your amazing site. I cannot even begin to tell you how much I learn from your site and really appreciate the time you have given to the community!
Use any GoPro as a webcam | GoPro webcam mode vs cheap capture card vs wireless | Free to 10
If your camera has an HDMI output you can use a video capture card and an HDMI cable. This usually provides the best quality and should provide synced audio too. You can use this option with the GoPro Hero 4 Silver and Black, Hero 5 Black, Hero 6 Black, Hero 2018 model and the Hero 7 Black. You can also use it with the Hero 8 and Hero 9 and I imagine any newer cameras with the optional GoPro Media Mod kit. It should also work with older models that have an HDMI output as well but I’ve not tested just how well it works since I don’t have anything older than my Hero 5 Black to hand.
If you have a Hero 7 Black or newer you can use the Live Streaming mode and some free software to turn the camera into a wireless webcam as I covered in detail a few months ago. I won’t go into so much detail – but I will show it working with a Mac this time since I only showed it with a PC previously.
It’s the most complicated option but it doesn’t cost anything and is the only option where you can use the camera wirelessly, and it captures audio too. Apart from being a little more difficult to set up, it also introduces significant delay so it’s not ideal for video calls but it’s still an interesting option.
If you have a GoPro Hero 8, Hero 9 or any newer camera I’d imagine, GoPro has finally introduced a native webcam mode that works with the supplied USB cable. Unfortunately it needs dedicated software that you’ll have to download and it doesn’t currently support audio, but it is available on both PCs and Macs.
You could just mount the GoPro on one of the included mounting buckles and tilt it back but it’s not the most flattering angle. Or you could use a convenient shelf or even a pile of books for a better angle.
Any GoPro tripod would also do the job. The GoPro 3-Way is probably the best option albeit a little precarious. Or the GoPro Shorty provides a little extra height over the basic GoPro tripod.
There’s also the GoPro Magnetic Swivel Clip which could be perfect, but it has a rather too much clamping force for your average monitor or laptop screen and may cause damage.
I’ve tried a few other GoPro mounts too and I’ve also tried attaching it to my Manfrotto Magic Arm and Elgato Multi-mount that I use for my mirrorless camera. Both options are overkill but work fine.
But I ended up designing and 3D printing a mount that clips onto my LG monitor which is far more convenient.
GoPro’s native webcam mode
First you’ll need to make sure you have the latest firmware on your camera. Connect to the GoPro app on your phone to check – you’ll be prompted if an update is available. The webcam feature is not compatible with the GoPro Labs firmware, which is a shame since that has some great features.
Make sure your camera is in GoPro Connect mode under Preferences | Connections. You can change this back to MTP if you want to transfer media from your GoPro.
On a Mac, download and install the GoPro Webcam desktop utility. The software is still in Beta on a PC at the time of filming and bizarrely you have to join a GoPro group to download it. I’ll provide links to both downloads in the description.
On a PC make sure the GoPro Webcam app is running and plug in your camera, ideally into a USB 3 port which is usually blue. You might need a USB extension cable – if so try and use a USB 3 extension cable, like this cheap AmazonBasics one I’m using here.
The GoPro Webcam icon in your taskbar should now have a blue dot to show the camera is connected. Right click on the icon and select Show Preview. The dot turns red to confirm the camera is active. If you close the preview it’ll go back to blue.
Opening any software that supports a webcam will also automatically activate the webcam and you’ll see the virtual LED again turn red. I tried Zoom, Microsoft Teams, Skype, Google Meet and OBS.
There aren’t many configurable options currently on the PC, although more features should be added. For example, you can’t choose resolution. It’s set at a decent 1920×1080, but it’s a shame you can’t use the 4K capabilities of the camera. And there is a lag of around 350-450ms, but I did get a framerate of 60 fps on my computer.
You can change the field of view using the digital lens option. Linear removes the standard GoPro fisheye look and Narrow crops or effectively zooms in, which is useful for video calls, especially if you have a lot of clutter in the background.
If your computer has a dedicated graphics card it should be selected by default but you can choose your integrated graphics if you want. Unless you’re having any issues with your discrete graphics, I’d recommend leaving this default setting for the best results.
On a Mac the GoPro Webcam icon is in the Status Menu bar at the top right and works in the same way. The Mac version also lets you mirror the camera if you click the Flip or Mirror button depending on which mode you’re on. And under Preferences you can choose 720p as well as the default 1080p which will prompt you to relaunch the app.
On my 2012 MacBook Pro I only got a framerate of 30 fps – you might get more on a newer Mac. The quality is ok with plenty of light but gets worse quickly as light levels dip. These GoPros still have small image sensors and consequently fairly poor low light performance.
Frustratingly, there’s no way on a PC or Mac of adjusting exposure, so you need to be careful about your backlighting if you don’t want to look underexposed, just like on your typical built-in webcam.
On the Hero 8 front LCD screen there’s an icon to show you’re in webcam mode and the red LED above flashes red when the webcam is active.
On the Hero 9 the front LCD displays a live video of what you’re capturing, which means you can hide your self view and free up some screen space. You also tend to look more into the lens of the camera although I’m not sure if that’s a good or bad thing for a video call!
The red LED also flashes when you’re live and the status changes from Paused to Active in red.
By default the screen turns off after a couple of minutes. If you want it to remain on, you’ll need to disconnect the USB cable, swipe down and then left on the rear screen, tap Preferences | Displays | Screen Saver Front and then change this to Never. You can also choose between a full screen cropped view or the actual view from the initial settings screen.
You don’t need the battery installed in webcam mode and if you’re using this feature a lot it keeps the camera a little cooler if you remove it.
At the moment webcam mode doesn’t capture audio which is very inconvenient on a desktop computer that won’t have a microphone by default. You’ll have to use an external mic – perhaps the one that came with your phone or a USB mic. But you’ll get noticeable audio delay with this method.
If you’re happy using OBS, you can add some delay to the audio – I found 450ms about right – to try and bring it in sync with the video, and you could send this to Zoom or another conferencing app from OBS. I’ll discuss both these options further shortly.
Using a video capture card
Video capture devices capture the output from the HDMI connection on your GoPro. Most of the cards available today support the UVC standard which means software like Zoom and Microsoft Teams recognise them as a webcam without having to install any drivers. And you can also capture audio over the HDMI cable, via the GoPro’s built in microphone, although I didn’t find this was particularly reliable.
This used to be a pricey option with cards starting at over £100 or 100. But I got this card from Aliexpress for less than £10 or 10 and it’s available on Amazon for just a little more.
And I’ll compare it to an Elgato HD60 S which cost almost £200 or 200. Although the Elgato Camlink 4K would be a slightly cheaper option with exactly the same quality – it just doesn’t have the video pass through for gaming.
They have a USB connection on one end that you should try and use with a USB 3 port on your computer, and an HDMI-in port for connection to your GoPro. You will also need an HDMI to micro-HDMI cable. I’ll have links down below to the exact capture cards and cables I’m using.
Unfortunately GoPro ditched the micro-HDMI port starting with the Hero 8 Black, but most GoPros before this will work with this method. You can add a micro-HDMI port to these newer GoPros with the GoPro Media Mod and they will then work with one of these HDMI capture cards as I’ll show later, but I wouldn’t buy the accessory just for that. The quality is a little bit better than the native webcam mode, and you do get audio, but you could buy a decent dedicated webcam for the price of the Media Mod.
Plug the USB capture card into a USB 3 port on your computer. Allow a few minutes for your Windows PC or Mac to automatically install any drivers needed.
Mine worked via an extension cable which you’ll probably need. Settings may vary slightly on different GoPro models, but on a Hero 5, from the Preferences menu scroll down to HDMI Output and choose Live so you don’t see any of the on-screen camera info. The GoPro Hero 5 Black can output 4K if your capture card can use it. The Elgato can record 4K footage, the cheaper HDMI card will downscale 4K footage to 1080p. The Hero 8 and 9 only output 1080p via their Media Mod.
Connect your GoPro with a HDMI to micro-HDMI cable. I’m using a standard HDMI cable with a micro-HDMI adapter.
Your GoPro can now be used as a webcam. In Zoom go into Settings | Video and select USB Video. This may have a different name depending on the exact capture card you purchase. In Settings | Audio, select Digital Audio Interface (USB Digital Audio). Check it’s working with the Test Mic button. Say something and you should hear it back after a few seconds of silence.
It’s the same idea in other conferencing apps.
In OBS, click the icon in Sources and select Video Capture device. Again choose USB Video. Under colour range, select Partial otherwise the image will look flat with little contrast.
Audio should be included in the video feed which you can check levels meter in the audio mixer panel. Or you can add audio as a separate source: again click the icon, choose Audio Input Capture and again select the Digital Audio Interface (USB Digital Audio).
This works the same on both a PC and Mac.
I found audio with the Hero 5 a little temperamental, even with the much more expensive Elgato HD60 S. Sometimes I got no audio for no apparent reason. I’d be interested to hear how you get on – please let me know down in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев. If you can’t get the audio working you can always use an external microphone.
If you do happen to have a Hero 8 or later with their GoPro Media Mod, I found audio worked more reliably and was better quality too with the front mini shotgun mic. It’s not immediately obvious how to get the live image with the media mod installed. You need to press the side mode button to cycle to the webcam icon and then press the record button to select this mode.
Then you have to use the side mode button again to cycle to the icon of an eye and press the record button again to turn the on-screen display off.
The advantage of using the built in microphones is there’s very little audio lag so lip sync is pretty good. If you’re using an external mic, depending on your software you might be able to adjust for this delay. In OBS I found adding around 100-200ms to the Sync Offset, under Advanced Audio Properties did a good job, but you’ll have to play around a little with your setup.
Setting up a GoPro as a wireless webcam
There is a final option which works with a Hero 7 Black or newer – basically any camera with the GoPro Live feature. It turns your camera into a wireless webcam and even includes audio.
I covered this using a PC in detail in a previous article, but I’ll cover the setup just briefly here – but this time on a Mac for completeness. For further details, please take a look at my previous article.
This is not a great solution for video conferencing because of the 2 second plus delay introduced by the wireless connection, but if you have nothing else it might still be an option!
But it’s still useful – for example spying on the bird feeder or other wildlife in the garden, or just recording video in a remote or awkward location. It’s the most difficult option to set up but it won’t cost you anything.
You need some software on your computer for the GoPro camera to communicate with wirelessly. On a PC you need to download the free open source RTMP server called Monaserver as I covered in my previous video. Make your Windows PC network profile is set to Private. Check that video for setup on a PC.
On a Mac install Sallar, another free open source RTMP server, by downloading and opening the.dmg file that I’ll link to down below in the video’s description. Then drag this application into the Applications folder as prompted and run it.
A video icon will appear in your menu bar which we’ll come back to. Take a note of the IP address of your Mac which you can find under System Preferences | Network | Status.
Download and install the free open source OBS Studio and then install the free OBS Virtualcam plugin.
In the GoPro app on your phone swipe across to Live and then tap on Setup Live, and then RTMP. Under “Enter your RTMP URL” enter rtmp:// followed by the IP address you just noted down followed by /live.
Choose your resolution and tap Set Up Live Stream. Wait for the camera to beep and then tap on the blue Go Live icon. The menu bar icon for the RTMP server should turn red and if you click on it shows details of the now active live stream.
Click on the copy icon next to the URL to copy this URL to the clipboard.
In OBS click on the icon as before and this time add a Medisource. Leave Create new selected and provide any name you like. Then click OK. Untick Local File and under Input enter the same address you just entered in the GoPro app or you can paste the local address you just copied to the clipboard.
Click ok and you should see the feed from your camera appear in OBS. You could now record this video feed, or even live stream it.
To send the video to Zoom or any other software that supports a webcam, click on Tools | Start Virtual Camera. Unfortunately by default you won’t get the audio in Zoom but there’s a workaround. Install VB-Cable which is a virtual sound card. Again I’ll provide a link down below. It’s free to use, but they ask for a donation if you find it useful.
We need this virtual sound card to monitor the audio output from the GoPro and then we can select this as our sound source in Zoom.
In OBS go to Settings | Audio | Advanced and change the monitoring device to VB-Cable.
Now go to the Advanced Audio Properties of the medisource in the Audio Mixer and turn on Monitor and Output in Audio Monitoring.
Now in, for example Zoom, choose OBS Virtual Camera in Settings | Video. You should get your GoPro cameras video. Then go to Settings | Audio and choose the VB-Cable as the microphone which will pass across the monitored audio from the GoPro camera in OBS. The video and audio should be mostly in sync, albeit both delayed by at least a couple of seconds. It’s nice that this is possible, but the delay is a little too long to be truly useful. I tried dropping the resolution all the way down to 480p but that made no difference. And both Monaserver on a fast PC with a wired connection and Sallar on this Mac with a wireless connection have the same delay.
I thought it’d be useful to compare the quality of a few of these options with the GoPro cameras I have as well as a 2012 MacBook Pro’s built in webcam. I’ve also added my iPhone 11 camera used with iVCam as I showed in another article and my Panasonic G80 mirrorless camera with both HDMI capture cards as a benchmark. Take a look at the video for a better comparison.
I found the best option overall was the cheap USB capture card. And it’ll work with any camera with an HDMI output and even works great with my mirrorless camera. Even if you can’t get audio working, you can use an external mic. There is a small amount of delay – around 100ms – but it would be acceptable for a video call. And you could use OBS if you like tinkering to reduce this – and even green screen your background! And with its UVC support, it works with all the video conferencing apps I’ve tried without having to install any additional software.
The only real advantage the Elgato has for over 10 times the price is that it can record 4K footage, but only the Hero 5 supports this out of the GoPros I tested, and it’s no use for video calls anyway. The HD60 S has other features too like passthrough, but they’re not relevant in this discussion.
The results using my iPhone 11 were also good – it handles low light far better. Also the longer focal length of a smartphone camera is more flattering. So take a look at my video on setting that up if you’re interested.
The native webcam feature works fine, but it’s frustrating you have to install additional software and I’d like to see audio support added very soon – that would make it far more useful.
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